Friday, September 4, 2015

JT15- Day 13

Konbanwa from Kyoto- one last time,

Today was my last full day in Kyoto. I will spend most of tomorrow here visiting one or two more temples after I check out of the ryokan. Hopefully I can find a large coin locker or my plans are screwed. Anyway I can worry about that then. 
Today up at 7ish and headed to Karasumaoike Subway Station. From there I walked to Kawaramachi and found a spot for the Gion Matsuri Posterior Float and Flower Processions. Now every bit of literature said the Floats at 9 & the Flowers at 10. Well I'm here to tell you 10 & 11 were the. Order of the day. 
Worth the wait and not a raindrop in sight. No need of the poncho today. It was fantastic to have seen the 'dismantled' float components Wed night and today put together on the floats. 
There were 3 geisha near where I was and they were like the welcoming committee for each passing float. It must have been hell for them. Mid 30° heat and constant streams of people taking photos of them. They are true professionals. A truly memorable experience. 
After the last cart of musicians had passed and the obligatory police car signalled the end of the show, I headed to Keihan Sanjo Station across the Kamogawa (Kamo River) to catch a tran to Tokofuji Station so I could visit Tofokuji temple- the largest Zen temple in Kyoto. On the walk there I noticed a sign on the wall- UDONN. This could only mean one thing- yep udon noodles. Went inside and it was the cutest little restaurant imaginable. They obviously cater to the odd tourist because the menu was the clearest I have come across in either a chain restaurant or individual one. I had cold udon and dipping sauce for ¥550. Also a flask of ice cold tea was included and I think I would have gone close to emptying it. Oisshi I. 
Then suitably fortified I walked on another few minutes to the turn for Tokofuji. On the way I visited a sub temple- Funda-in. These little gems just keep appearing- gardens, tea rooms,painted screens and the glory that is walking barefoot on tatami. Pure Land bliss. 
On to Tofuku-ji and another two superlative gardens. One of them would beyond dreams in autumn- just maples for days. The other one is 4 separate gardens built around the Hojo (living quarters of the head priest of a Zen temple) which it seems is the only example of a garden on all four sides of a Hojo in Japan. These were created by a very famous 20th Century garden designer Shigemori Mirei and they are stunning evocations of the life of the Buddha amongst many meditational concepts. 
There are wonders aplenty elsewhere in the grounds- the biggest San-mon (entrance gate) in Kyoto, a 100+ toilet that dates back to the Muromachi period (1337-1573) and an ingenious steam bath that could hold many monks because at any one time over 100 monks would be studying/living at the temple and the amount of water and trees needed to heat it would have cleared the surrounding forest in no time flat. So the ecologically minded monks used steam to clean themselves. Seems the system still works to this day. Sugoi. 
Back to the station feeling very zen. 
JR Tokofuji this time and a train back to Kyoto where I walked to the Family Mart opposite for one last shop. Naturally bought one last Lotte Watermelon Ice. Also bought something Paul had mentioned called "Chicken Salad" which is a piece of poached chicken breast- cost ¥253 and with a bag of mixed salad ¥245 it made the best meal. Think I know what I could live on if I needed to live here. 
The other day when I had bought some things the sales clerk said take a card (not sure if I mentioned this) but I didn't win anything. Today I get 2 cards and wonder of wonders- both winners. One was a can of Red Bull Summer Edition- now I have never had a Red Bull but if the Summer Edition is anything to go by, which I'm sure it isn't, then I'm in. It was spectacularly tasty- citrus to the maxx. The other winner was a little tub of blueberry yoghurt- brand Partheno. Dessert after dinner. Tasty too especially for free. 
So I will call it a night have a shower and up early tomorrow to pack and check out. 
I will continue the tale from the Anami residence 

Lotsalove,

Tim

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