Helllloooooo from Changi Airport,
To continue the day's events when Saito and Mami returned we had cold soba noodles, dipping sauce with side dishes of just off the super crunch broccoli and kewpie mayo along with my personal favourite pumpkin- needless to say none was partaken of by yrs truly.
After lunch we played Monopoly- Saito is a property developer in the making, he ended up cleaning us all out. They are so quick it's hard to keep up but a lot of fun. Then we watched Back to the Future- hadn't seen it for a long time. Still a fun film. Incidentally don't think I mentioned that Yoichi told me he did an English refresher in anticipation of my visit listening to CD/s and watching films like Star Wars and B to the F. He also says he speaks Osaka ben (dialect) Japanese and Aussie English.
Also I must correct my Kyoto street crossing sounds- the directions are right- North/South is the bird sound but that is the piu piu sound and the East/West is the bing/bong sound. Just so you know in case you want to impress anyone with such arcane knowledge.
Turns out one of Leia's team mates was taken to the hospital with heat exhaustion so instead of them being back by 6ish it was closer to 7ish. Was able for the first time to give everyone their presentos at the same time. Yay.
All very happy with their gift/s especially Leia who I had found a mini backpack with koala in a carry sling on the back of it. Found it at Hot Potatoes in Glen Huntly Road Elsternwick and have to say was a very happy find. When we went to dinner she insisted on carrying it (the koala) and playing with it all the time. I was happy that she was also wanting to hold my hand as we walked. I start to think the day won't be too far away when she no longer wants to do that. We went to a real sushi train restaurant that had a massive number of people waiting. You takes your number and you waits your turn. The turnover is pretty quick and I suppose we waited about 10-15 minutes but it seemed like years. Place probably seats 50-60 either in booths on the 'outside' and individual seats around the 'inside'. We piled up the plates in no time at all as evidenced by photo evidence. Including maguro (tuna), snapper, hamachi and a personal new favourite (not had before) salmon with a pesto sauce. All washed down with green tea made from matcha. Also had kitsune udon (noodles with fried bean curd and tempura 'rice bubbles'. As the dishes kept coming I started to worry a little about timing and so when we left and finally made it to Uehommachi Station Airport Limousine pick up the next bus was at 9:39. Just for context my flight 11:30. Anyway I shouldn't panic as Yoichi has the perfect no planning timing but with my Travel Gods history I fully expected some delay on the way and I would get to KIX after the flight had closed. No worries got there and was in the departure lounge with about 30 minutes to spare before boarding. Got on the plane, settled down, napped a bit, had breakfast (salmon, rice, vegetables, bread, jam, orange juice and coffee) and watched Monsters University, shiv I hadn't seen before. Fun....
So now I'm tapping this out in Terminal 3 Outside Gate Lounge A9 waiting for it to open and then wait to get on SQ207 for the final leg home.
Pretty much the end of the diary I spose.
If I think of anything else will add en route and probably post this either from home or Mum's.
Lotsalove,
Tim
Roger, wilco, over and out 4 now....OK I'm at Mums and sending the final final bit. Uneventful trip from Singapore. Landed at 5:45pm got a cab and home by 7:30pm.
Signing off now til next trip May/June 2016
Friday, September 4, 2015
JT15- Day 14
It's Sunday morning at the Anami residence. Yoichi and Mami are here and the kids are at sports- Saito- badminton practise and Leia- netball practise. S for 3 hours/ L the whole day until 6pm!!!
Anyway back to yesterday.
Got up about 8 am had my final soba and dipping sauce breakfast followed by the last of the bananas & washed down with tea.
Checked out of the ryokan and they very kindly let me leave my case there for the day so I didn't have to schlep it around.
Headed to Kujo station and caught the subway to Karasumaoike where I transferred to the Tozei Subway line and went to Keage station and then walked to a couple of local temples before heading to my main objective- Nanzen-ji another large Zen temple founded in the 1200's. On the way I passed the Keage Incline which uses the same principle as the Hays Incline Plane in Coalport England to move product from a factory on to a barge and then winched down to a canal to be transported wherever. Funny to see the same principle on the other side of the world.
Climbed the VERY steep stairs of the Sanmon (main gate) which I'm sure was nearly as large as the one at Tofukuji. Worth it for the stunning 360° view from the top. Could spot a couple of landmarks including Heian Jingu a couple of clicks away.
Another glorious pair of gardens and I sat on the step of the Sanmon to eat my onigiri that I had brought with me. A very nice probably in his 60's University of Tokyo Professor of Agriculture then engaged me in conversation about all things Aussie and my general love affair with all things Japonnaise. He made the comment that he had never seen a foreigner eating an onigiri I think he needs to get out more. I was intrigued that he had begged off touring the gardens "too hot" and let his wife do the walking alone. He like just about everybody else made the comment that I know more Japanese history than most Japanese and I could be his teacher!
Then on my way back to the station I made one last stop at Konchi-in which is a sub temple of Nanzen-ji and walked my final beautiful garden that includes a Toshogu mausoleum in tribute of my main man Tokugawa Ieyasu. I felt it was very apt that pretty much my last thing to see this trip was in honour of the man I want to honour on my next trip in June next year to celebrate the 400th anniversary of his death.
Back to Keage station and then retaraced my steps back to the ryokan and pick up my luggage. Then caught the train all the way from Kujo to Kyoto (1 stop) and then waited in a very long queue in the JR West Ticket Office to again do something I have not done before (mainly because I am usually using a Japan Rail Pass) and book a ticket for Osaka and a reserved seat at that. Cost was ¥1370. Originally Yoichi had said to meet him at a JR station somewhere in his area at 6pm but he messaged and asked if I could meet at Kyobashi Station at 5pm. Fortunately I was already on my way from Kyoto to Osaka on the Thunderbird Limited Express and so I said ok.
We met amid great joy at catching up then we caught a train to go to the new office of a friend to watch Tenjin Matsuri festivities on the river and fireworks. His friend Eguchi runs a design company and Yoichi met him playing rugby and now they play together and also do business together. The way the world should be.
His office space is simply spectacular with objets d'arts and whatnot scattered around in true artistic fashion. He is a fan of Gilbert an George among I'm sure many things and was intrigued that I had seen them perform "Underneath the Arches" live at the NGV way back when.
Probably 20-30 people in total turned up for the festivities. Food, including Yoichi being co-opted into making takoyaki (so it was a little like being at his place for the usual last Saturday dinner) and drink in great abundance. The most intriguing dish was a box of individual single bite ice creams inc maccha (green tea), chocolate and caramel flavours. Very moreish.
During the evening I had an interesting conversation with a 57 year old man whose family company made children's clothes and went bankrupt about 6 years ago. He and his brother had already started another company doing the same thing and all the employees decided to stay with them in the new company and he has spent the last 5 years building a viable business.
Also Eguch san said that a young lady wanted to practise English and so I spent the most delightful time talking to a graphic designer who works for him in his office. Her name is Eri and she said she met Eguchi when she was 16 and he was her drawing teacher at art school. She recently spent 2 weeks in England on holiday. I told her she must visit Australia next. Her friend Mereni designs umbrellas and I showed her my really light Warefront umbrella and explained how we had bought some Waterfront umbrellas on our trip in 2008.
It was a really entertaining night and it seems Tenjin MTsuri is one of the biggest in Japan. The barges, boats and every other imaginable type of floating device thronged the water including special barges to carry Mikoshi (in this case a number of giant ones) on a trip around the city on the river. Spectacular and the office was the perfect spot to watch the goings on. Up and away from the thronging masses on the riverside and bridges.
Then a last minute dash to catch the last trains back to Konoikeshinden Station which is fairly near Yoichi's. There were no cabs at the station so we walked at about 12:15am with Yoichi dragging my suitcase and it was still probably 30° or thereabouts. Took about 10 minutes to get there and of course the kids were asleep. Mami got up and said hello. Yoichi had made the comment earlier that everything is good with her now and she definitely looks well. He had also commented that it seems his father has lung cancer and will have further tests on Aug 6th to see what is happening. Seems he has had a small lump for some time but it has recently got larger.
And so to bed. Same deal as last time. Mami is sleeping in the kids room so I slept in the 'adult' bedroom with Yoichi.
I will update the rest of today probably on the plane tonight. Suffice to say we have been watching Star Wars Episode 4 (the first one) and drinking iced coffee. Yoichi felt too hung over to go to rugby practise this morning so it is a very lazy Sunday at the Anami's. I have already been given my presentto. It is a cotton top and three quarter shorts that doesn't apparently have a name. Very snazzy and a perfect fit. Also a bag of lollies I think might be fruit based.
More later,
Lotsalove,
Tim
Anyway back to yesterday.
Got up about 8 am had my final soba and dipping sauce breakfast followed by the last of the bananas & washed down with tea.
Checked out of the ryokan and they very kindly let me leave my case there for the day so I didn't have to schlep it around.
Headed to Kujo station and caught the subway to Karasumaoike where I transferred to the Tozei Subway line and went to Keage station and then walked to a couple of local temples before heading to my main objective- Nanzen-ji another large Zen temple founded in the 1200's. On the way I passed the Keage Incline which uses the same principle as the Hays Incline Plane in Coalport England to move product from a factory on to a barge and then winched down to a canal to be transported wherever. Funny to see the same principle on the other side of the world.
Climbed the VERY steep stairs of the Sanmon (main gate) which I'm sure was nearly as large as the one at Tofukuji. Worth it for the stunning 360° view from the top. Could spot a couple of landmarks including Heian Jingu a couple of clicks away.
Another glorious pair of gardens and I sat on the step of the Sanmon to eat my onigiri that I had brought with me. A very nice probably in his 60's University of Tokyo Professor of Agriculture then engaged me in conversation about all things Aussie and my general love affair with all things Japonnaise. He made the comment that he had never seen a foreigner eating an onigiri I think he needs to get out more. I was intrigued that he had begged off touring the gardens "too hot" and let his wife do the walking alone. He like just about everybody else made the comment that I know more Japanese history than most Japanese and I could be his teacher!
Then on my way back to the station I made one last stop at Konchi-in which is a sub temple of Nanzen-ji and walked my final beautiful garden that includes a Toshogu mausoleum in tribute of my main man Tokugawa Ieyasu. I felt it was very apt that pretty much my last thing to see this trip was in honour of the man I want to honour on my next trip in June next year to celebrate the 400th anniversary of his death.
Back to Keage station and then retaraced my steps back to the ryokan and pick up my luggage. Then caught the train all the way from Kujo to Kyoto (1 stop) and then waited in a very long queue in the JR West Ticket Office to again do something I have not done before (mainly because I am usually using a Japan Rail Pass) and book a ticket for Osaka and a reserved seat at that. Cost was ¥1370. Originally Yoichi had said to meet him at a JR station somewhere in his area at 6pm but he messaged and asked if I could meet at Kyobashi Station at 5pm. Fortunately I was already on my way from Kyoto to Osaka on the Thunderbird Limited Express and so I said ok.
We met amid great joy at catching up then we caught a train to go to the new office of a friend to watch Tenjin Matsuri festivities on the river and fireworks. His friend Eguchi runs a design company and Yoichi met him playing rugby and now they play together and also do business together. The way the world should be.
His office space is simply spectacular with objets d'arts and whatnot scattered around in true artistic fashion. He is a fan of Gilbert an George among I'm sure many things and was intrigued that I had seen them perform "Underneath the Arches" live at the NGV way back when.
Probably 20-30 people in total turned up for the festivities. Food, including Yoichi being co-opted into making takoyaki (so it was a little like being at his place for the usual last Saturday dinner) and drink in great abundance. The most intriguing dish was a box of individual single bite ice creams inc maccha (green tea), chocolate and caramel flavours. Very moreish.
During the evening I had an interesting conversation with a 57 year old man whose family company made children's clothes and went bankrupt about 6 years ago. He and his brother had already started another company doing the same thing and all the employees decided to stay with them in the new company and he has spent the last 5 years building a viable business.
Also Eguch san said that a young lady wanted to practise English and so I spent the most delightful time talking to a graphic designer who works for him in his office. Her name is Eri and she said she met Eguchi when she was 16 and he was her drawing teacher at art school. She recently spent 2 weeks in England on holiday. I told her she must visit Australia next. Her friend Mereni designs umbrellas and I showed her my really light Warefront umbrella and explained how we had bought some Waterfront umbrellas on our trip in 2008.
It was a really entertaining night and it seems Tenjin MTsuri is one of the biggest in Japan. The barges, boats and every other imaginable type of floating device thronged the water including special barges to carry Mikoshi (in this case a number of giant ones) on a trip around the city on the river. Spectacular and the office was the perfect spot to watch the goings on. Up and away from the thronging masses on the riverside and bridges.
Then a last minute dash to catch the last trains back to Konoikeshinden Station which is fairly near Yoichi's. There were no cabs at the station so we walked at about 12:15am with Yoichi dragging my suitcase and it was still probably 30° or thereabouts. Took about 10 minutes to get there and of course the kids were asleep. Mami got up and said hello. Yoichi had made the comment earlier that everything is good with her now and she definitely looks well. He had also commented that it seems his father has lung cancer and will have further tests on Aug 6th to see what is happening. Seems he has had a small lump for some time but it has recently got larger.
And so to bed. Same deal as last time. Mami is sleeping in the kids room so I slept in the 'adult' bedroom with Yoichi.
I will update the rest of today probably on the plane tonight. Suffice to say we have been watching Star Wars Episode 4 (the first one) and drinking iced coffee. Yoichi felt too hung over to go to rugby practise this morning so it is a very lazy Sunday at the Anami's. I have already been given my presentto. It is a cotton top and three quarter shorts that doesn't apparently have a name. Very snazzy and a perfect fit. Also a bag of lollies I think might be fruit based.
More later,
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Day 13
Konbanwa from Kyoto- one last time,
Today was my last full day in Kyoto. I will spend most of tomorrow here visiting one or two more temples after I check out of the ryokan. Hopefully I can find a large coin locker or my plans are screwed. Anyway I can worry about that then.
Today up at 7ish and headed to Karasumaoike Subway Station. From there I walked to Kawaramachi and found a spot for the Gion Matsuri Posterior Float and Flower Processions. Now every bit of literature said the Floats at 9 & the Flowers at 10. Well I'm here to tell you 10 & 11 were the. Order of the day.
Worth the wait and not a raindrop in sight. No need of the poncho today. It was fantastic to have seen the 'dismantled' float components Wed night and today put together on the floats.
There were 3 geisha near where I was and they were like the welcoming committee for each passing float. It must have been hell for them. Mid 30° heat and constant streams of people taking photos of them. They are true professionals. A truly memorable experience.
After the last cart of musicians had passed and the obligatory police car signalled the end of the show, I headed to Keihan Sanjo Station across the Kamogawa (Kamo River) to catch a tran to Tokofuji Station so I could visit Tofokuji temple- the largest Zen temple in Kyoto. On the walk there I noticed a sign on the wall- UDONN. This could only mean one thing- yep udon noodles. Went inside and it was the cutest little restaurant imaginable. They obviously cater to the odd tourist because the menu was the clearest I have come across in either a chain restaurant or individual one. I had cold udon and dipping sauce for ¥550. Also a flask of ice cold tea was included and I think I would have gone close to emptying it. Oisshi I.
Then suitably fortified I walked on another few minutes to the turn for Tokofuji. On the way I visited a sub temple- Funda-in. These little gems just keep appearing- gardens, tea rooms,painted screens and the glory that is walking barefoot on tatami. Pure Land bliss.
On to Tofuku-ji and another two superlative gardens. One of them would beyond dreams in autumn- just maples for days. The other one is 4 separate gardens built around the Hojo (living quarters of the head priest of a Zen temple) which it seems is the only example of a garden on all four sides of a Hojo in Japan. These were created by a very famous 20th Century garden designer Shigemori Mirei and they are stunning evocations of the life of the Buddha amongst many meditational concepts.
There are wonders aplenty elsewhere in the grounds- the biggest San-mon (entrance gate) in Kyoto, a 100+ toilet that dates back to the Muromachi period (1337-1573) and an ingenious steam bath that could hold many monks because at any one time over 100 monks would be studying/living at the temple and the amount of water and trees needed to heat it would have cleared the surrounding forest in no time flat. So the ecologically minded monks used steam to clean themselves. Seems the system still works to this day. Sugoi.
Back to the station feeling very zen.
JR Tokofuji this time and a train back to Kyoto where I walked to the Family Mart opposite for one last shop. Naturally bought one last Lotte Watermelon Ice. Also bought something Paul had mentioned called "Chicken Salad" which is a piece of poached chicken breast- cost ¥253 and with a bag of mixed salad ¥245 it made the best meal. Think I know what I could live on if I needed to live here.
The other day when I had bought some things the sales clerk said take a card (not sure if I mentioned this) but I didn't win anything. Today I get 2 cards and wonder of wonders- both winners. One was a can of Red Bull Summer Edition- now I have never had a Red Bull but if the Summer Edition is anything to go by, which I'm sure it isn't, then I'm in. It was spectacularly tasty- citrus to the maxx. The other winner was a little tub of blueberry yoghurt- brand Partheno. Dessert after dinner. Tasty too especially for free.
So I will call it a night have a shower and up early tomorrow to pack and check out.
I will continue the tale from the Anami residence
Lotsalove,
Tim
Today was my last full day in Kyoto. I will spend most of tomorrow here visiting one or two more temples after I check out of the ryokan. Hopefully I can find a large coin locker or my plans are screwed. Anyway I can worry about that then.
Today up at 7ish and headed to Karasumaoike Subway Station. From there I walked to Kawaramachi and found a spot for the Gion Matsuri Posterior Float and Flower Processions. Now every bit of literature said the Floats at 9 & the Flowers at 10. Well I'm here to tell you 10 & 11 were the. Order of the day.
Worth the wait and not a raindrop in sight. No need of the poncho today. It was fantastic to have seen the 'dismantled' float components Wed night and today put together on the floats.
There were 3 geisha near where I was and they were like the welcoming committee for each passing float. It must have been hell for them. Mid 30° heat and constant streams of people taking photos of them. They are true professionals. A truly memorable experience.
After the last cart of musicians had passed and the obligatory police car signalled the end of the show, I headed to Keihan Sanjo Station across the Kamogawa (Kamo River) to catch a tran to Tokofuji Station so I could visit Tofokuji temple- the largest Zen temple in Kyoto. On the walk there I noticed a sign on the wall- UDONN. This could only mean one thing- yep udon noodles. Went inside and it was the cutest little restaurant imaginable. They obviously cater to the odd tourist because the menu was the clearest I have come across in either a chain restaurant or individual one. I had cold udon and dipping sauce for ¥550. Also a flask of ice cold tea was included and I think I would have gone close to emptying it. Oisshi I.
Then suitably fortified I walked on another few minutes to the turn for Tokofuji. On the way I visited a sub temple- Funda-in. These little gems just keep appearing- gardens, tea rooms,painted screens and the glory that is walking barefoot on tatami. Pure Land bliss.
On to Tofuku-ji and another two superlative gardens. One of them would beyond dreams in autumn- just maples for days. The other one is 4 separate gardens built around the Hojo (living quarters of the head priest of a Zen temple) which it seems is the only example of a garden on all four sides of a Hojo in Japan. These were created by a very famous 20th Century garden designer Shigemori Mirei and they are stunning evocations of the life of the Buddha amongst many meditational concepts.
There are wonders aplenty elsewhere in the grounds- the biggest San-mon (entrance gate) in Kyoto, a 100+ toilet that dates back to the Muromachi period (1337-1573) and an ingenious steam bath that could hold many monks because at any one time over 100 monks would be studying/living at the temple and the amount of water and trees needed to heat it would have cleared the surrounding forest in no time flat. So the ecologically minded monks used steam to clean themselves. Seems the system still works to this day. Sugoi.
Back to the station feeling very zen.
JR Tokofuji this time and a train back to Kyoto where I walked to the Family Mart opposite for one last shop. Naturally bought one last Lotte Watermelon Ice. Also bought something Paul had mentioned called "Chicken Salad" which is a piece of poached chicken breast- cost ¥253 and with a bag of mixed salad ¥245 it made the best meal. Think I know what I could live on if I needed to live here.
The other day when I had bought some things the sales clerk said take a card (not sure if I mentioned this) but I didn't win anything. Today I get 2 cards and wonder of wonders- both winners. One was a can of Red Bull Summer Edition- now I have never had a Red Bull but if the Summer Edition is anything to go by, which I'm sure it isn't, then I'm in. It was spectacularly tasty- citrus to the maxx. The other winner was a little tub of blueberry yoghurt- brand Partheno. Dessert after dinner. Tasty too especially for free.
So I will call it a night have a shower and up early tomorrow to pack and check out.
I will continue the tale from the Anami residence
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Day 12
Hi Gals,
Starting earlier rather than later today.
Firstly a couple of things to do with sounds that I have had lightbulb moments (bit tortured I know). In Japanese cities you hear a "bing bong" sound at regular intervals and I always assumed it was to identify train stations. I have now revised this to the fact that the sounds identify Public Toilets.
Next up it suddenly made sense regarding the two types of tones made at pedestrian crossings here in Kyoto. Had always noticed that one of them is like a bird chirp and the other is sort of piu piu. Hadn't thought much else about it- random chance. No such thing here the bird chirp is when North/South crossing the street is ok and piu piu for East/West. How cool is that.
This morning was wet again. Caught the subway from Kujo to Marutamachi and then walked to the Sento Imperial Palace for my 11am tour. The guide was the most animated, erudite and going by the reactions of the Japanese on the tour funniest ever. It truly was the best guide commentary I didn't understand a word of. Didn't know til I got there they can provide an English commentary for various numbered locations on the tour and it was useful but God I wish I had been able to understand the guide. He da bomb.
The gardens just keep getting better and considering the fact that these ones belong to the boss as it were have been lovingly and expertly tended for over 300 years. They are exquisite. Every angle and vista another OMG moment. The rain drops on the maples and the moss...simply stunning. Had the same problem I had during the Imperial Palace tour. Ran out of battery on the camera. This one definitely takes fewer photos per battery. And of course the spare was in my bag in a locker back at the visitors room near the front gate. So had to shoot quite a few (& I mean q a f) with the phone. At least I had that option. Would have been devastated without it. The comic high point of the tour was our "clean up man". Like on the Imperial Palace tour a bloke follows to make sure no one nicks off and goes rogue. On the IP tour the role was played by a veritable Mr Plod in police or security uniform. Today's incarnation was a very different one. Gave the ineffable presence of retired detective down to the very snappy tweed trilby and stick. Almost laughed out loud when he caught me trying to photograph him and he took a smart veer to the right to avoid being snapped. Got him though and the resulting pic will, I think explain his look fairly well.
I cannot stress the beauty of these gardens and just one example of the lengths they go to to ensure the desired effect can be demonstrated by the Issho stones. There are 110,000+ of these rounded stones that are laid along the shoreline of the South Pond for a total distance of over 100 metres making it the largest in any of the imperial gardens. They were provided by the Lord of Odawara and are named because the cost of finding and transporting each of them supposedly cost 1 sho (which is a measure of rice of about 2 litres). Pretty expensive pebbles. Still a remarkable vista and shows what can be achieved if money literally is no object. Thankfully the rain held off for most of the tour. Made my way back to the imperial Palace Cafe in the hope that the tempura udon would be available but alas sold out again so consoled myself with the still amazingly delicious grated ginger one I had after the IP tour.
Went to BIC Camera at Kyoto Station and bought another camera battery. Slow walk back to the ryokan via good old AEON Mall.
Now time for a shower and bed.
Up early tomorrow for the "Posterior Festival" parade at 9am. Want to get a good spot by about 8 so will have to leave here about 7:30 at the latest.
More news then
Nearly at the end of the trip
Time takes a while to get up steam but now it's hurtling along.
Lotsalove,
Tim
Starting earlier rather than later today.
Firstly a couple of things to do with sounds that I have had lightbulb moments (bit tortured I know). In Japanese cities you hear a "bing bong" sound at regular intervals and I always assumed it was to identify train stations. I have now revised this to the fact that the sounds identify Public Toilets.
Next up it suddenly made sense regarding the two types of tones made at pedestrian crossings here in Kyoto. Had always noticed that one of them is like a bird chirp and the other is sort of piu piu. Hadn't thought much else about it- random chance. No such thing here the bird chirp is when North/South crossing the street is ok and piu piu for East/West. How cool is that.
This morning was wet again. Caught the subway from Kujo to Marutamachi and then walked to the Sento Imperial Palace for my 11am tour. The guide was the most animated, erudite and going by the reactions of the Japanese on the tour funniest ever. It truly was the best guide commentary I didn't understand a word of. Didn't know til I got there they can provide an English commentary for various numbered locations on the tour and it was useful but God I wish I had been able to understand the guide. He da bomb.
The gardens just keep getting better and considering the fact that these ones belong to the boss as it were have been lovingly and expertly tended for over 300 years. They are exquisite. Every angle and vista another OMG moment. The rain drops on the maples and the moss...simply stunning. Had the same problem I had during the Imperial Palace tour. Ran out of battery on the camera. This one definitely takes fewer photos per battery. And of course the spare was in my bag in a locker back at the visitors room near the front gate. So had to shoot quite a few (& I mean q a f) with the phone. At least I had that option. Would have been devastated without it. The comic high point of the tour was our "clean up man". Like on the Imperial Palace tour a bloke follows to make sure no one nicks off and goes rogue. On the IP tour the role was played by a veritable Mr Plod in police or security uniform. Today's incarnation was a very different one. Gave the ineffable presence of retired detective down to the very snappy tweed trilby and stick. Almost laughed out loud when he caught me trying to photograph him and he took a smart veer to the right to avoid being snapped. Got him though and the resulting pic will, I think explain his look fairly well.
I cannot stress the beauty of these gardens and just one example of the lengths they go to to ensure the desired effect can be demonstrated by the Issho stones. There are 110,000+ of these rounded stones that are laid along the shoreline of the South Pond for a total distance of over 100 metres making it the largest in any of the imperial gardens. They were provided by the Lord of Odawara and are named because the cost of finding and transporting each of them supposedly cost 1 sho (which is a measure of rice of about 2 litres). Pretty expensive pebbles. Still a remarkable vista and shows what can be achieved if money literally is no object. Thankfully the rain held off for most of the tour. Made my way back to the imperial Palace Cafe in the hope that the tempura udon would be available but alas sold out again so consoled myself with the still amazingly delicious grated ginger one I had after the IP tour.
Went to BIC Camera at Kyoto Station and bought another camera battery. Slow walk back to the ryokan via good old AEON Mall.
Now time for a shower and bed.
Up early tomorrow for the "Posterior Festival" parade at 9am. Want to get a good spot by about 8 so will have to leave here about 7:30 at the latest.
More news then
Nearly at the end of the trip
Time takes a while to get up steam but now it's hurtling along.
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Day 11
Konbanwa,
Late start tonight. It's 11:21pm here which makes it 12:21 am tomorrow in your neck of the woods.
Radical rethink last night after posting Day 10's missive.
I was looking through the original list of shrines/temples and places of interest in Kyoto that I think I printed off for our original tour in 2008. In there I noticed Sanzen-in which mentions over 3000 hydrangeas in bloom during the rainy season. Rainy season has supposedly finished tho you'd never know it from today's sterling effort by the Weather Gods. Even allowing for only a small percentage blooming thought it was worth the trip. A what a trip it was.
Walked to Kyoto Station from the ryokan and found the Kyoto Bus rank (C3) that the bus to Ohara leaves from. When things talk escape summer heat in the hills etc not really thinking long distances from town. Should have. Took about an hour to get to Ohara Terminus and at one point I noticed a temperature sign by the side of the road saying 23° and I thought "I may be cold". No chance- warm, humid and wet were the order of the day. Pretty much off the beaten tourist track which made it all the more enjoyable. Lovely temple- always been associated with the Imperial Family and fantastic gardens. Lots of Japanese schoolgirl groups having photos taken and taking them all over the place. Then I walked a couple of minutes down the road to Shorin-in another Imperial related Tendai sect temple. Very old prayer hall and a small garden. Then a couple more minutes brought me to the jewel in the crown- Hosen-in. A green tea was included in the price and a very nice gent who brought it and a Japanese sweet was great at explaining the way the beams framed the view and later when I was heading into the garden he also explained that the early (Heian) style was for a viewing garden and the later (Edo) style was for a walking garden. This had two of the best tiny examples of each that I have seen. Truly gorgeous and well worth the extra bus fare. Incidentally speaking of bus fares I thought I'd buy a One Day City Bus Pass which still only cost ¥500. As each trip within the fixed price area is ¥230 well you only need to take 3 trips to be in front. Only problem as I alluded to earlier was that Ohara was well outside the ¥500 area so my trip to Ohara ended up costing the ¥230 plus ¥380 extra. So on the way back I have gone through my small change and make sure I have the difference to pay when we get back to Kyoto Station. Also in non fixed areas you know how much your fare will cost by taking a little ticket when you get on that obviously starts at 1 and progresses at each section change so the longer the trip the more the fare. I purposely took the "1" ticket when I got on at the Ohara Terminus and had it in my hand ready to pay the extra at journeys end, but wonder of wonders the driver just noted my Daily Pass and I was out of there ¥380 richer. Thank you Travel Gods.
Because of it being wet I tossed up whether to go look at the floats lit up. So glad I did. Left the ryokan about 7:30pm and caught the trusty Karasuma Subway Line fro Kujo to Karasumaoike. By the look of the map I had showing where these floats were parked I thought should be close enough. Dang nab it Travel Gods positively beamed and I had a great hour or so checking them all out. The amazing things or a few of them is that all the props, tapestries and figures are stored in little side street arcades that you walk down to see them up close and personal and obviously saves them from water, or any other kind of damage. It was marvellous to see and the community involvement is truly astonishing including a few of them that had young school kids mainly girls dressed in kimono and singing at the top of their lungs while selling whatever souvenirs are special to their area. Also at one of the floats looked around and there was a bunch of geisha dressed for work. Got a few shots. Feel very self conscious about taking photos but they really are extraordinary. Hair makeup flawless. Highlight of the night.
Tomorrow off to the Sento Imperial Palace tour at 11am and will then decide what to do for the arvo.
Lotsalove,
Tim
Late start tonight. It's 11:21pm here which makes it 12:21 am tomorrow in your neck of the woods.
Radical rethink last night after posting Day 10's missive.
I was looking through the original list of shrines/temples and places of interest in Kyoto that I think I printed off for our original tour in 2008. In there I noticed Sanzen-in which mentions over 3000 hydrangeas in bloom during the rainy season. Rainy season has supposedly finished tho you'd never know it from today's sterling effort by the Weather Gods. Even allowing for only a small percentage blooming thought it was worth the trip. A what a trip it was.
Walked to Kyoto Station from the ryokan and found the Kyoto Bus rank (C3) that the bus to Ohara leaves from. When things talk escape summer heat in the hills etc not really thinking long distances from town. Should have. Took about an hour to get to Ohara Terminus and at one point I noticed a temperature sign by the side of the road saying 23° and I thought "I may be cold". No chance- warm, humid and wet were the order of the day. Pretty much off the beaten tourist track which made it all the more enjoyable. Lovely temple- always been associated with the Imperial Family and fantastic gardens. Lots of Japanese schoolgirl groups having photos taken and taking them all over the place. Then I walked a couple of minutes down the road to Shorin-in another Imperial related Tendai sect temple. Very old prayer hall and a small garden. Then a couple more minutes brought me to the jewel in the crown- Hosen-in. A green tea was included in the price and a very nice gent who brought it and a Japanese sweet was great at explaining the way the beams framed the view and later when I was heading into the garden he also explained that the early (Heian) style was for a viewing garden and the later (Edo) style was for a walking garden. This had two of the best tiny examples of each that I have seen. Truly gorgeous and well worth the extra bus fare. Incidentally speaking of bus fares I thought I'd buy a One Day City Bus Pass which still only cost ¥500. As each trip within the fixed price area is ¥230 well you only need to take 3 trips to be in front. Only problem as I alluded to earlier was that Ohara was well outside the ¥500 area so my trip to Ohara ended up costing the ¥230 plus ¥380 extra. So on the way back I have gone through my small change and make sure I have the difference to pay when we get back to Kyoto Station. Also in non fixed areas you know how much your fare will cost by taking a little ticket when you get on that obviously starts at 1 and progresses at each section change so the longer the trip the more the fare. I purposely took the "1" ticket when I got on at the Ohara Terminus and had it in my hand ready to pay the extra at journeys end, but wonder of wonders the driver just noted my Daily Pass and I was out of there ¥380 richer. Thank you Travel Gods.
Because of it being wet I tossed up whether to go look at the floats lit up. So glad I did. Left the ryokan about 7:30pm and caught the trusty Karasuma Subway Line fro Kujo to Karasumaoike. By the look of the map I had showing where these floats were parked I thought should be close enough. Dang nab it Travel Gods positively beamed and I had a great hour or so checking them all out. The amazing things or a few of them is that all the props, tapestries and figures are stored in little side street arcades that you walk down to see them up close and personal and obviously saves them from water, or any other kind of damage. It was marvellous to see and the community involvement is truly astonishing including a few of them that had young school kids mainly girls dressed in kimono and singing at the top of their lungs while selling whatever souvenirs are special to their area. Also at one of the floats looked around and there was a bunch of geisha dressed for work. Got a few shots. Feel very self conscious about taking photos but they really are extraordinary. Hair makeup flawless. Highlight of the night.
Tomorrow off to the Sento Imperial Palace tour at 11am and will then decide what to do for the arvo.
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Day 10
Evening favourite girls,
Coupla trains, well a few really, but a fair amount of walking.
I must be getting used to the weather because they said it was 33.6° today and it sorta felt a lot cooler than yesterday. Who am I kidding? But seriously 3° makes a huge difference. Anyway my story sticking to....
Train from Kujo to Kyoto ( only one stop but saving the walking legs for later- don't want to blow out early), then JR Nara Line from Kyoto to Inari to visit Shigeo san- just an aside for Angela and anyone else who may have forgotten. Shige san was a friend of my mate Yoichi who I will visit in Osaka on Saturday. I met Shige San when he was living and studying in Melbourne. He is the 9th generation of a family that runs a cafe/ souvenir shop about halfway up the 4.5 km trek that is Fushimi Inari-taisha. He lived in Melbourne working in the finance business for Daiwa Securities and was looking to open a coffee shop in Fitzroy or thereabouts but decided the cost was too high so after a barista course in Melbourne he headed home about 2 & a half years ago firstly working at the family business which is where I saw him with Yoichi and Leia in October 2013. By the way, I know I told Mum this but I am sure Yoichi said they couldn't have children and what a pity for the continuation of the male line as far as family bidness and all went. Well not true they have a son named Gosei (https://www.facebook.com/ photo.php?fbid= 10152694158611636&set=a. 10150171841631636.295325. 701211635&type=1). Shige San explained the Kanji 'Go' can translate as part of Goshu which can mean Australia so his son is pretty much named Oz. I did see the posting on Facebook but wasn't sure if maybe he was adopted but no a natural Kimura.
So with that aside aside spent nearly 2 hours talking to him about this and that. I had also taken him one of the Melbourne roll up maps that I bought for Paul and Yoichi ( one to go). He was very happy and said he will try to find a place to put it up at Vermillion although the place is small and even though it's not a huge map would take up valuable wall space. I had also bought a pair of pretty cute neko socks for Miwa san from QBF (Quick Brown Fox) a boutique in Flinders Lane near Degraves St I thought she may be familiar with. Didn't matter either way they were damned kawaii. Also I found a tshirt for Gosei that had on the front something like: "Someone who thinks I'm very special bought this from Melbourne" with a tram (of course) and a couple of either landmarks I think- not sure but it was definitely kawaii to the max.
The man makes a damn fine double expresso and now has 6 people working part time. He said if Vermillion is open 365 days a year he can get a local government grant as an information centre and if he isn't working ( which at the moment is Thursdays) then his stipulation is there must be at least one English speaker working. He is such a nice guy. I wish it weren't quite as far to visit him. Long way for a flat white. Incidentally he explained why the Imperial Household Agency was closed yesterday. Should have tumbled to it- National Public Holiday- Sea Day would you believe
Train from Inari back to Kyoto then Karasuma Subway to Imedagawa to book for the Sento Imperial Palace tour which I will do on Thursday at 11am. Today they're open and booked I am. I had a bowl of udon with grated ginger at the Imperial Palace Cafe which I posted to Instagram. Oishii
Now comes the walking part.
From the Kyoto Goen (the gardens surrounding the Imperial Palace- which incidentally up until the time the capital moved to Tokyo wasn't actually a garden it was covered with over 200 houses for the nobility) I walked south along Teramachi dori to Teramachi Shopping Street which covers a lot of territory. The Shopping Streets are a godsend in any weather and provide great respite from the heat. I had walked some of it last year with Paul and he had also whizzed me along Nishiki dori, which is the food/ fruit/veg/fish, etc buying epicentre of Kyoto. Today a bit more leisurely saunter including a look at a few temples that were relocated from various parts of the country to form part of the new Great East Boundary Road of the capital during Toyotomi Hideyoshi' remodelling of the capital in the 16th Century.
I had something quite amazing in Nishiki Market. This guy cuts a hole in the top of a blood grapefruit and then uses like a drill stand to pulp the innards into juice. He then presents it to you with a straw out the hole and because they are in like a cool chest when he chooses one for you they are chilled juice and extremely tasty. Could have drunk many more than one. For the adventureous and another ¥200 you could have it with rum or shochu. ¥400 for the plain jane was ok with me.
Out of Nishiki Market at about 5:30pm just as most of the stalls were starting to close & went to the Yoshinoya opposite Daimaru on Karasuma dori for Unagi setto- 3 delicious pieces of eel on rice to which you add the special pepper and as is my wont lots of their pickled ginger. I really think their pg is da bomb. The setto includes the Unagi and rice as well as a bowl of miso soup and a side dish if pickled veg. Also you get refills of iced tea from jugs on the counter. Sooooo civilized.
Walked to Shijo Subway Station and train back to Kujo for the last leg walk to the Ryokan via Family Mart for the mandatory watermelon ice.
Obviously there will be a photo or three of my perambulation so that's something to look forward to, huh.
Tomorrow will probably head to Saga Arashiyama to check out Bruce 2 and tomorrow afternoon/evening I will check out the charmingly titled "Posterior Procession" floats (of which there are 10) and hopefully this time see them lit up and get to eat some more street food as well.
Another day awaits,
Lotsalove,
Tim
Coupla trains, well a few really, but a fair amount of walking.
I must be getting used to the weather because they said it was 33.6° today and it sorta felt a lot cooler than yesterday. Who am I kidding? But seriously 3° makes a huge difference. Anyway my story sticking to....
Train from Kujo to Kyoto ( only one stop but saving the walking legs for later- don't want to blow out early), then JR Nara Line from Kyoto to Inari to visit Shigeo san- just an aside for Angela and anyone else who may have forgotten. Shige san was a friend of my mate Yoichi who I will visit in Osaka on Saturday. I met Shige San when he was living and studying in Melbourne. He is the 9th generation of a family that runs a cafe/ souvenir shop about halfway up the 4.5 km trek that is Fushimi Inari-taisha. He lived in Melbourne working in the finance business for Daiwa Securities and was looking to open a coffee shop in Fitzroy or thereabouts but decided the cost was too high so after a barista course in Melbourne he headed home about 2 & a half years ago firstly working at the family business which is where I saw him with Yoichi and Leia in October 2013. By the way, I know I told Mum this but I am sure Yoichi said they couldn't have children and what a pity for the continuation of the male line as far as family bidness and all went. Well not true they have a son named Gosei (https://www.facebook.com/
So with that aside aside spent nearly 2 hours talking to him about this and that. I had also taken him one of the Melbourne roll up maps that I bought for Paul and Yoichi ( one to go). He was very happy and said he will try to find a place to put it up at Vermillion although the place is small and even though it's not a huge map would take up valuable wall space. I had also bought a pair of pretty cute neko socks for Miwa san from QBF (Quick Brown Fox) a boutique in Flinders Lane near Degraves St I thought she may be familiar with. Didn't matter either way they were damned kawaii. Also I found a tshirt for Gosei that had on the front something like: "Someone who thinks I'm very special bought this from Melbourne" with a tram (of course) and a couple of either landmarks I think- not sure but it was definitely kawaii to the max.
The man makes a damn fine double expresso and now has 6 people working part time. He said if Vermillion is open 365 days a year he can get a local government grant as an information centre and if he isn't working ( which at the moment is Thursdays) then his stipulation is there must be at least one English speaker working. He is such a nice guy. I wish it weren't quite as far to visit him. Long way for a flat white. Incidentally he explained why the Imperial Household Agency was closed yesterday. Should have tumbled to it- National Public Holiday- Sea Day would you believe
Train from Inari back to Kyoto then Karasuma Subway to Imedagawa to book for the Sento Imperial Palace tour which I will do on Thursday at 11am. Today they're open and booked I am. I had a bowl of udon with grated ginger at the Imperial Palace Cafe which I posted to Instagram. Oishii
Now comes the walking part.
From the Kyoto Goen (the gardens surrounding the Imperial Palace- which incidentally up until the time the capital moved to Tokyo wasn't actually a garden it was covered with over 200 houses for the nobility) I walked south along Teramachi dori to Teramachi Shopping Street which covers a lot of territory. The Shopping Streets are a godsend in any weather and provide great respite from the heat. I had walked some of it last year with Paul and he had also whizzed me along Nishiki dori, which is the food/ fruit/veg/fish, etc buying epicentre of Kyoto. Today a bit more leisurely saunter including a look at a few temples that were relocated from various parts of the country to form part of the new Great East Boundary Road of the capital during Toyotomi Hideyoshi' remodelling of the capital in the 16th Century.
I had something quite amazing in Nishiki Market. This guy cuts a hole in the top of a blood grapefruit and then uses like a drill stand to pulp the innards into juice. He then presents it to you with a straw out the hole and because they are in like a cool chest when he chooses one for you they are chilled juice and extremely tasty. Could have drunk many more than one. For the adventureous and another ¥200 you could have it with rum or shochu. ¥400 for the plain jane was ok with me.
Out of Nishiki Market at about 5:30pm just as most of the stalls were starting to close & went to the Yoshinoya opposite Daimaru on Karasuma dori for Unagi setto- 3 delicious pieces of eel on rice to which you add the special pepper and as is my wont lots of their pickled ginger. I really think their pg is da bomb. The setto includes the Unagi and rice as well as a bowl of miso soup and a side dish if pickled veg. Also you get refills of iced tea from jugs on the counter. Sooooo civilized.
Walked to Shijo Subway Station and train back to Kujo for the last leg walk to the Ryokan via Family Mart for the mandatory watermelon ice.
Obviously there will be a photo or three of my perambulation so that's something to look forward to, huh.
Tomorrow will probably head to Saga Arashiyama to check out Bruce 2 and tomorrow afternoon/evening I will check out the charmingly titled "Posterior Procession" floats (of which there are 10) and hopefully this time see them lit up and get to eat some more street food as well.
Another day awaits,
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Day 9
Konbanwa again,
I was a bit premature with my Til Tuesday reference. It only being Monday. Not sure how I jumped a day ahead.
This morning after my obligatory breakfast soba and dipping sauce I headed to the Imperial Palace Agency in the grounds of the Palace because I wanted to see if I could book for a tour of the Sento Imperial Palace which is also in the grounds of the main Imperial Palace that I toured last week. It is a one hour tour , only in Japanese and run twice a day at 11:30 & 1:30. Unfortunately for some reason the Household Agency was closed so I could even find out f there were any slots for any day.
Disappointed I made the best of it and caught various trains to the Kyoto Handicrafts Centre which I had read was a good source of souvenirs. Best thing was if you spent a certain amount anything you bought was less tax and even more designed to lure in the punter was after you had finished shopping you took your receipts to the Information Desk and the nice lady got you to SLOWLY spin a little barrel and whatever colour ball came out determined your free gift. I got a set of postcards for my white ball. Would love to know if they are all white balls. Don't think I took a pic of the barrel. Very slack.
I then caught the Kyoto City Bus 203 back to Shijo Station, had a bit of a wander up Karasuma dori as far as Diamaru. Depaato (department stores) are on a whole different level as we know. Even where they have tried to train staff ( like UniQlo ) the attitude is just not there. The way the lowliest counter person in a konbini counts your change makes the transaction special. It is beyond polite.
Walking back from Kujo station I was really hit with just how freaking hot it is. The waves coming off the new black road surface and the white lines of the pedestrian crossing was ferocious and made your eyes water with the brutality of the heat.
So I was glad to escape into my aircon'd room and watch the Sumo tournament.
Sushi again for dinner and it was fab to have a quick chat with Ma. Miss our daily natters.
Tomorrow will go see Shige san at Vermillion. It was his wife's birthday today. I'll probably also head to Saga Arashiyama and see if I can catch up with Yoichi's mate Bruce who makes the person shaped pencil cases. Will probably first try to go to the Imperial Household Agency and try to book for the Sento Palace tour on Wed or Thurs if poss.
Til Tuesday ( yay got it right this time),
Lotsalove,
Tim
I was a bit premature with my Til Tuesday reference. It only being Monday. Not sure how I jumped a day ahead.
This morning after my obligatory breakfast soba and dipping sauce I headed to the Imperial Palace Agency in the grounds of the Palace because I wanted to see if I could book for a tour of the Sento Imperial Palace which is also in the grounds of the main Imperial Palace that I toured last week. It is a one hour tour , only in Japanese and run twice a day at 11:30 & 1:30. Unfortunately for some reason the Household Agency was closed so I could even find out f there were any slots for any day.
Disappointed I made the best of it and caught various trains to the Kyoto Handicrafts Centre which I had read was a good source of souvenirs. Best thing was if you spent a certain amount anything you bought was less tax and even more designed to lure in the punter was after you had finished shopping you took your receipts to the Information Desk and the nice lady got you to SLOWLY spin a little barrel and whatever colour ball came out determined your free gift. I got a set of postcards for my white ball. Would love to know if they are all white balls. Don't think I took a pic of the barrel. Very slack.
I then caught the Kyoto City Bus 203 back to Shijo Station, had a bit of a wander up Karasuma dori as far as Diamaru. Depaato (department stores) are on a whole different level as we know. Even where they have tried to train staff ( like UniQlo ) the attitude is just not there. The way the lowliest counter person in a konbini counts your change makes the transaction special. It is beyond polite.
Walking back from Kujo station I was really hit with just how freaking hot it is. The waves coming off the new black road surface and the white lines of the pedestrian crossing was ferocious and made your eyes water with the brutality of the heat.
So I was glad to escape into my aircon'd room and watch the Sumo tournament.
Sushi again for dinner and it was fab to have a quick chat with Ma. Miss our daily natters.
Tomorrow will go see Shige san at Vermillion. It was his wife's birthday today. I'll probably also head to Saga Arashiyama and see if I can catch up with Yoichi's mate Bruce who makes the person shaped pencil cases. Will probably first try to go to the Imperial Household Agency and try to book for the Sento Palace tour on Wed or Thurs if poss.
Til Tuesday ( yay got it right this time),
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Days 7 & 8
Greetings from Kyoto,
Just watching a fascinating doc on on the building of the Shinkansen.
Yesterday the Travel Gods might have laid low dreaming up some more spanner tossing, but the Weather Gods were front and centre. According to the news the area received over 299 mm ( that's over 12 inches in the old) in the 24 hour period- Friday/Saturday So I was a bit loth to venture out while it was still bucketing down. I watched a bit of terebi (TV)and then finally went for something I don't often do- went for a local wander.
Walked up to Kyoto Station then along the Main Street in front of the station to the side street where the first ryokan I stayed at a few years ago. It's still there of course.
Then in true round trip fashion I made my way along side streets to AEON Mall and had a squizz at the shops. Shopping malls here are a treat. Always something of interest and the shop names are priceless. The big wish would be being able to afford the shoes. They are without doubt the most stylish imaginable and seem to be $200 plus. No room in the luggage anyway. Back via Family Mart for provisions.
This morning I thought lets go to Shoren-in. I had printed off a guide but I had forgotten the main reason for wanting to go there( or at least it's "satellite" site- Seiryuden where a Japanese artist has built a glass teahouse where the tea ceremony is performed. Unfortunately not today. There was an article on the wall at Shoren-in talking about it and I very brazenly hijacked a lady guide who was being paid to take a family around to quickly confirm that indeed the teahouse is at Seiryuden and that there is a shuttle bus which runs from the car park. The car park man laughed out loud "hasn't run since Dec 25 last year" he chortled. He said you could walk, take a taxi or his car. I said " let's use your car" and we both laughed heartily. He gave me a map and said it should take about 30 minutes. Those are Japanese walker minutes and I was just glad I hadn't attempted it earlier as the hill would have literally been a river of water, mud, etc.
I got ther in about 45 mins and was pretty proud of myself. The teahouse is stunning and the most amazing thing was the benches around it to sit and contemplate the structure are made of glass as well and even though it wasn't blazing sun it was at least 30+ degrees and yet the benches were cool. Astounding.
The gardens were as usual gorgeous. It is reall something seeing these gardens covered in moss and all the trees, especially the maples in full leaf.
I felt that I had done pretty well to walk up the hill and didn't need the glory of falling down. So I did something I haven't done before and may never do again. I took a taxi. The man at the ticket booth orders it for you and I got the description of gaijin in a blue tshirt as how to identify me. Cost ¥1150- about $11:50 and dropped me off at the station (Hisashiyama on the Tozei line). Where I had started from in the morning.
One other quite amazing thing. When I got to the station on the wat to Shoren-in there were posters everywhere adverting an exhibition of paintings from The Louvre but another poster caught my eye a Magritte. I thought u can bet bottom dollar here it has just finished or starts next week. None of that it was ON so I made a detour to the Kyoto Municipal Art Gallery for an exhibition of 130 Magritte paintings. Trust the Japanese to get surrealism. Well worth ¥1400. After the exhibition I stopped off at 7/11 for onigiri where they had set up seating in the car park and doing a roaring trade. 7/11 is the best konbini and as much as I love Family Mart, wish there was one close by.
Tomorrow I will go and book for a Japanese only one hour guided tour of the Sento Imperial Palace which is in the grounds of the Imperial Palace and probably have a look at Nishiki Market and the Mikoshi at Teramachi.
Til Tuesday,
Lotsalove,
Tim
Just watching a fascinating doc on on the building of the Shinkansen.
Yesterday the Travel Gods might have laid low dreaming up some more spanner tossing, but the Weather Gods were front and centre. According to the news the area received over 299 mm ( that's over 12 inches in the old) in the 24 hour period- Friday/Saturday So I was a bit loth to venture out while it was still bucketing down. I watched a bit of terebi (TV)and then finally went for something I don't often do- went for a local wander.
Walked up to Kyoto Station then along the Main Street in front of the station to the side street where the first ryokan I stayed at a few years ago. It's still there of course.
Then in true round trip fashion I made my way along side streets to AEON Mall and had a squizz at the shops. Shopping malls here are a treat. Always something of interest and the shop names are priceless. The big wish would be being able to afford the shoes. They are without doubt the most stylish imaginable and seem to be $200 plus. No room in the luggage anyway. Back via Family Mart for provisions.
This morning I thought lets go to Shoren-in. I had printed off a guide but I had forgotten the main reason for wanting to go there( or at least it's "satellite" site- Seiryuden where a Japanese artist has built a glass teahouse where the tea ceremony is performed. Unfortunately not today. There was an article on the wall at Shoren-in talking about it and I very brazenly hijacked a lady guide who was being paid to take a family around to quickly confirm that indeed the teahouse is at Seiryuden and that there is a shuttle bus which runs from the car park. The car park man laughed out loud "hasn't run since Dec 25 last year" he chortled. He said you could walk, take a taxi or his car. I said " let's use your car" and we both laughed heartily. He gave me a map and said it should take about 30 minutes. Those are Japanese walker minutes and I was just glad I hadn't attempted it earlier as the hill would have literally been a river of water, mud, etc.
I got ther in about 45 mins and was pretty proud of myself. The teahouse is stunning and the most amazing thing was the benches around it to sit and contemplate the structure are made of glass as well and even though it wasn't blazing sun it was at least 30+ degrees and yet the benches were cool. Astounding.
The gardens were as usual gorgeous. It is reall something seeing these gardens covered in moss and all the trees, especially the maples in full leaf.
I felt that I had done pretty well to walk up the hill and didn't need the glory of falling down. So I did something I haven't done before and may never do again. I took a taxi. The man at the ticket booth orders it for you and I got the description of gaijin in a blue tshirt as how to identify me. Cost ¥1150- about $11:50 and dropped me off at the station (Hisashiyama on the Tozei line). Where I had started from in the morning.
One other quite amazing thing. When I got to the station on the wat to Shoren-in there were posters everywhere adverting an exhibition of paintings from The Louvre but another poster caught my eye a Magritte. I thought u can bet bottom dollar here it has just finished or starts next week. None of that it was ON so I made a detour to the Kyoto Municipal Art Gallery for an exhibition of 130 Magritte paintings. Trust the Japanese to get surrealism. Well worth ¥1400. After the exhibition I stopped off at 7/11 for onigiri where they had set up seating in the car park and doing a roaring trade. 7/11 is the best konbini and as much as I love Family Mart, wish there was one close by.
Tomorrow I will go and book for a Japanese only one hour guided tour of the Sento Imperial Palace which is in the grounds of the Imperial Palace and probably have a look at Nishiki Market and the Mikoshi at Teramachi.
Til Tuesday,
Lotsalove,
Tim
JT15- Days 5 & 6
Hello again from hot, humid and wet Kyoto,
If I didn't love you Sal I would have given up hours ago trying to change yr email address in Gmail/ Inbox. Anyhow think it's done now.
Back to yesterday. At 1pm met up with Paul at Shijo Karasuma which as the name implies is the corner of Shijo dori and Karasuma dori. He lives about 10 minutes walk away so was convenient for him as well as being somewhere I knew how to get to. He teaches at two places nearby and the third is in a town about halfway between Kyoto and Osaka. We went to eat at a restaurant he recommended which only opened a few weeks ago and is next door to one of the schools. You choose 6 "side dishes" (out of 12) and get a miso soup. For an extra amount you can have rice with fried tofu strips and a sauce. We had the lot.
Then we went for coffee at a reasonably nearby coffee shop, do not ask for directions, which is run by 2 sisters, one of them lived in Kensington for about 4 months. After that he headed off and I headed back to the ryokan.
I went back to Shijo Karasuma at sunset because I "wanted to see the lights" but I'm not sure if I had my signals crossed or they had taken the lianterns down in anticipation ot Typhoon jun ichi (11) but the floats were not lit. The streets were filled with people eating from a variety of stalls. I had some yakitori and an okonomiyaki. Oisshi. Made up for the lack of lanterns.
This morning I got up at 7 and headed off on the well worn track to SK. I then walked along Shijo to the corner of Kawaramachi which is where the floats make their first turn. This is truly something to be seen to be believed. While I was waiting for the procession to start at 9am I noticed a group of guys filling barrels and buckets with water. God knows where the hose went from. And I thought how quaint but when the floats make their turn their attendants put down bamboo strips, wet them with water from the buckets and the wheels slide across the strips. You have to imagine a dry day, which today decidedly wasn't. By the end of the parade it was like being in one of those wet weather woodblock prints.
Before the Naginata Hoko had arrived at "my" corner- probably 100-200 metres away there was some sort of emergency towards that way and all these medical teams, including a stretcher, media and sundry other support staff harmed off to do whatever. Probably held up proceedings for 10-15 minutes. It rained a lot during the procession but it being warm made it bearable. The whole thing lasted about 2 and a bit hours. When I got back to SK I thought I will just see if I could find somewhere to eat along Karasuma and Lo & behold about 200 metres along the road were all these people gathered around this TINY side street. What for I'm thinking. When I get there and look there is Naginata Boko coming down the street to make its final turn to return to base. When I had looked at the rote map it appeared to finish near the Kyoto City Office ( a U on its side shape) but the real end was back where it began. How apt.
Didn't bother trying to find somewhere to eat as the rain just kept getting heavier and even with a plastic poncho on I was soaked to the skin.
Got the train back to Kujo, went to Family Mart, bought some Chicken Curry Don (lunch), sushi (dinner) and soba (breakfast). Spent the afternoon watching the Nagoya Basho (Sumo tournament). I'll wait and decide what to do tomorrow depending on the weather but most likely will visit a temple/shrine or 2.
Until then,
Lotsalove,
Tim
If I didn't love you Sal I would have given up hours ago trying to change yr email address in Gmail/ Inbox. Anyhow think it's done now.
Back to yesterday. At 1pm met up with Paul at Shijo Karasuma which as the name implies is the corner of Shijo dori and Karasuma dori. He lives about 10 minutes walk away so was convenient for him as well as being somewhere I knew how to get to. He teaches at two places nearby and the third is in a town about halfway between Kyoto and Osaka. We went to eat at a restaurant he recommended which only opened a few weeks ago and is next door to one of the schools. You choose 6 "side dishes" (out of 12) and get a miso soup. For an extra amount you can have rice with fried tofu strips and a sauce. We had the lot.
Then we went for coffee at a reasonably nearby coffee shop, do not ask for directions, which is run by 2 sisters, one of them lived in Kensington for about 4 months. After that he headed off and I headed back to the ryokan.
I went back to Shijo Karasuma at sunset because I "wanted to see the lights" but I'm not sure if I had my signals crossed or they had taken the lianterns down in anticipation ot Typhoon jun ichi (11) but the floats were not lit. The streets were filled with people eating from a variety of stalls. I had some yakitori and an okonomiyaki. Oisshi. Made up for the lack of lanterns.
This morning I got up at 7 and headed off on the well worn track to SK. I then walked along Shijo to the corner of Kawaramachi which is where the floats make their first turn. This is truly something to be seen to be believed. While I was waiting for the procession to start at 9am I noticed a group of guys filling barrels and buckets with water. God knows where the hose went from. And I thought how quaint but when the floats make their turn their attendants put down bamboo strips, wet them with water from the buckets and the wheels slide across the strips. You have to imagine a dry day, which today decidedly wasn't. By the end of the parade it was like being in one of those wet weather woodblock prints.
Before the Naginata Hoko had arrived at "my" corner- probably 100-200 metres away there was some sort of emergency towards that way and all these medical teams, including a stretcher, media and sundry other support staff harmed off to do whatever. Probably held up proceedings for 10-15 minutes. It rained a lot during the procession but it being warm made it bearable. The whole thing lasted about 2 and a bit hours. When I got back to SK I thought I will just see if I could find somewhere to eat along Karasuma and Lo & behold about 200 metres along the road were all these people gathered around this TINY side street. What for I'm thinking. When I get there and look there is Naginata Boko coming down the street to make its final turn to return to base. When I had looked at the rote map it appeared to finish near the Kyoto City Office ( a U on its side shape) but the real end was back where it began. How apt.
Didn't bother trying to find somewhere to eat as the rain just kept getting heavier and even with a plastic poncho on I was soaked to the skin.
Got the train back to Kujo, went to Family Mart, bought some Chicken Curry Don (lunch), sushi (dinner) and soba (breakfast). Spent the afternoon watching the Nagoya Basho (Sumo tournament). I'll wait and decide what to do tomorrow depending on the weather but most likely will visit a temple/shrine or 2.
Until then,
Lotsalove,
Tim
Wednesday, September 2, 2015
JT15- Day 4
Konbanwa,
Well I didn't spend all looking at floats but I definitely spent about 4 hours on that pursuit. The highlight was going on to the Naginata Boko which is the first float in the procession and carries the sacred child who cuts the rope to start the procession. What was truly amazing that where other floats were charging ¥1000 ($10) to go aboard, access to the most important float was free.
On the way to Shigo Karasuma ( street corner nearest where the floats are lined up I went up the Kyoto Tower for the first time. It is 100 metres tall and gives a great 360° view of the city and surrounds. On a clear day you can see all the way to Osaka 45 km away. I think I could see it
By the way I forgot to mention that our lovely lady guide at the Imperial Palace explained that the most inauspicious direction is the Northeast and consequently the outer wall at the NE corner is cut out and a monastery was built on top of Mt Hiei to deflect the evil spirits from the city.
Tomorrow I will catch up with Paul D'Agostino ( Alex De Petro's mate) who I met up with last year. We will go for lunch & coffee in the Shijo Karasuma area and tomorrow night I will go and see the floats all lit up at night.
I messaged Yoichi and even though he is working Sat 24/7 he will pick me up from a station and I will spend the night with the family. Yay.
I also messaged Shigeo (who has the coffee shop (Vemillion) near JR Inari station. He said they are opening every day now and that there is a local festival in the area this weekend. So I will probably go Sat or Sun to catch up with him. I'll have to find out if there is a time when both he & Miwa san will be there.
Well I didn't spend all looking at floats but I definitely spent about 4 hours on that pursuit. The highlight was going on to the Naginata Boko which is the first float in the procession and carries the sacred child who cuts the rope to start the procession. What was truly amazing that where other floats were charging ¥1000 ($10) to go aboard, access to the most important float was free.
On the way to Shigo Karasuma ( street corner nearest where the floats are lined up I went up the Kyoto Tower for the first time. It is 100 metres tall and gives a great 360° view of the city and surrounds. On a clear day you can see all the way to Osaka 45 km away. I think I could see it
By the way I forgot to mention that our lovely lady guide at the Imperial Palace explained that the most inauspicious direction is the Northeast and consequently the outer wall at the NE corner is cut out and a monastery was built on top of Mt Hiei to deflect the evil spirits from the city.
Tomorrow I will catch up with Paul D'Agostino ( Alex De Petro's mate) who I met up with last year. We will go for lunch & coffee in the Shijo Karasuma area and tomorrow night I will go and see the floats all lit up at night.
I messaged Yoichi and even though he is working Sat 24/7 he will pick me up from a station and I will spend the night with the family. Yay.
I also messaged Shigeo (who has the coffee shop (Vemillion) near JR Inari station. He said they are opening every day now and that there is a local festival in the area this weekend. So I will probably go Sat or Sun to catch up with him. I'll have to find out if there is a time when both he & Miwa san will be there.
Another year...Another trip to Japan- Day 1/2
Fair morrow my Ladies,
Whatever I have done to displease the Travel Gods has obviously not been fully repaid as yet.
When I spoke to Mum from the airport I was just about to board.
That part went ok but then the captain informed us that due to "the weather" and the fact they could only use one runway meant we were going to be up to an hour late taking off.
And that is how it happened. Have to say though the service on Singapore Airlines is really good. Food, drink and free movies/TV/music,etc.
Because I was only supposed to have 1 hour 10 min layover I was unable to catch my connecting flight so I am writing this from Room 815 at the Carlton Hotel in Singapore. Room, cab from and to airport and breakfast/lunch paid for by the airline.
Still it throws me out because I was supposed to pick up my wifi from the Post Office at KIX during business hours and I won't arrive until half past nine tonight. Still not sure how that will work out. Have sent them an email advising so just have to wait.
Also getting to the hotel is going to make for a very late check in. Have emailed them as well.
Not really much more to add at this point. Going to be a long day/night.
One bright spot was on the drive in from Changing Airport we passed the Singapore Flyer (Observation Wheel), the Formula One track at the Marina and my Amazing Race moment was going past the amazing 3 towers with the the roof garden that the contestants had to walk between 2 towers of on a recent series.
Further update/when I finally get to Kyoto.
Lotsalove,
Tim
Whatever I have done to displease the Travel Gods has obviously not been fully repaid as yet.
When I spoke to Mum from the airport I was just about to board.
That part went ok but then the captain informed us that due to "the weather" and the fact they could only use one runway meant we were going to be up to an hour late taking off.
And that is how it happened. Have to say though the service on Singapore Airlines is really good. Food, drink and free movies/TV/music,etc.
Because I was only supposed to have 1 hour 10 min layover I was unable to catch my connecting flight so I am writing this from Room 815 at the Carlton Hotel in Singapore. Room, cab from and to airport and breakfast/lunch paid for by the airline.
Still it throws me out because I was supposed to pick up my wifi from the Post Office at KIX during business hours and I won't arrive until half past nine tonight. Still not sure how that will work out. Have sent them an email advising so just have to wait.
Also getting to the hotel is going to make for a very late check in. Have emailed them as well.
Not really much more to add at this point. Going to be a long day/night.
One bright spot was on the drive in from Changing Airport we passed the Singapore Flyer (Observation Wheel), the Formula One track at the Marina and my Amazing Race moment was going past the amazing 3 towers with the the roof garden that the contestants had to walk between 2 towers of on a recent series.
Further update/when I finally get to Kyoto.
Lotsalove,
Tim
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