Tuesday, October 28, 2014

JT 14- Day 14 & 15

Hi girls,

As you are no doubt keenly aware, I didn't get to write to you yesterday due to having a fair bit to do that didn't include tappin' on the keys. 
So here is Saturday and Sunday combined for your reading pleasure and edification. 
Had my onigiri and a banana for breakfast then checked out from Hotel Taiyo about 8:45. 
I pretty much knew the way to get to the station near the Anami's as I have travelled it a few times before. From Shinimamiya to Kyobashi and change trains there to Suminodo. I had a ranged to meet Yoichi a little after 10 so I purposely caught a train getting there at 9:47 so I would have time up my sleeve. I got down the bottom of the ramp from the main entrance and had really just got there when I saw Yoichi driving up in the Noah. Perfect timing. He had Saito with him as Leia was off playing netball. Back to the house, settled in and then Mami and Leia arrived. 
Mami had bought stuff for lunch- maki (including my favourite tuna) and inari ( I made sure that it was mentioned that Phoebe has a fondness for them), which we had with a bowl of miso soup and coffee afterwards. 
At about 2PM Yoichi, Saito and I went to have a look at the new P & P Yuki premises. Very grand although not a huge difference in the amount of floorspace compared to the old building. 
Then back to the house. Saito had to go and play badminton so Yoichi, Leia and I went to a Matsuri ( festival) being held near a local shrine. There were stalls set up down about 4-5 alleys around the shrine- some selling food, some selling all manner of knick knacks, toys and sundry useless kid must haves  But the real kid magnet are the stalls with various crazy games of chance. A few recognisable like shoot the balloons, get the hoops over the sticks, etc BUT the doozies are ones like picking up as many real live goldfish with a paper net as you can before the paper gets waterlogged and breaks thereby rendering it well nigh impossible to pick up more of the poor little buggers. There were also water tanks where the water ran and you had to pick various objects like little balls of trinkets ( again with the paper net) and again dependin on how many you got determined the prize,if any. They were pretty expensive games (¥300-400) for the most part and the rewards were pretty cheap in comparison. Still the kids were having a ball. Leia also bought a giant sausage on a stick smothered in ketchup and then a chocolate coated banana covered in hundreds and thousands. Just to really bring home the fact that you aren't in Kansaswas a couple of stalls selling cucumbers on a stick- cucumber really!
After an hour or so trekking around the shebang back to the house. 
Dinner was a delicious meat and potato soup, rice, a really hearty miso soup with carrots and onions as well as tofu followed by coffee and a sweet that is balls of sticky something covered in sweet sticky something. Know it's hard to believe but they were tasty. 
We had played Uno earlier and after dinner Y, S, L and I played Monopoly. S loves Monopoly but Leia won. They really get into the whole property developer mentality including auctions and doing swap deals to establish ownership of areas. I felt like a total victim of the capitalist society at work. I had a bath before dinner so to bed at about 11:15PM. 
Up this morning about 7:30AM. Onigiri ( as it happens for breakfast and then Saito, Yoichi and I drove to the office, left his car and walked to the nearest station to catch a train to Ikoma. The reason was the annual BBQ for Saito's rugby club. An hour and a half of up hill and steps and hills and steps and tracks and steps until we got to the BBQ spot. On the way in the train Yoichi told me his father grew up in an area on the way to Ikoma and he used to take Yoichi walking in the forests around Mount Ikoma so it was quite a homecoming of sorts for Yoichi. 
Thankfully I took some photos because words really fail to do justice to a Japanese BBQ. They set up seats and tables under cover and tarpaulins, rugs for lolling in the open. They had 6-8 areas of 3-4 charcoal burning barbies which all the blokes fan furiously, with fans, while the ladies ferry the ingredients. Each area then starts cooking the same things in sequence. First little sort of smoked cocktail franks which were eaten with a slightly spicy brown sauce. Then chicken wings followed by thinly sliced beef, sweet corn, onions, sweet potato, eggplant. All the while other delicacies like fish are being steamed in foil, each area had 3 of these fish which when cooked were pulled apart and set on top of a bowl of what I can only describe as daikon slurry. Very tasty. The other real delicacy, which I was told are quite expensive were a shellfish sort of like a small conch shell and when cooked you pull the meat out and eat this quite odd looking bluish coloured very bitter end bit followed by the quite chewy bit at the opening end but you don't eat the very tip that greets the outside world cos it's a disc of shell looks like a button. Remarkable looking but something I could probably not be too fussed if never eaten again. 
All this is washed down with beers and spirits for the grownups and soft drinks for the 100 or so kids from the various grades the club fields. Have to say it was interesting to see the number of men ( my self included) drinking zero alcohol beer. 
I met a man who lives in Nara which is quite near to Ikoma and who works as a travel agent   I remembered his daughter Anika, from last year, because as far as I can remember, she was the only girl practicing. He takes her to Australia every year during their summer break and she goes to school for 8-10 weeks because she loves going to an Australian school. Also he pointed to a boy who speaks English because his father is Scottish and teaches English at a University in Osaka. Kid spoke pretty flawless English with an interesting mix of brogue and Japonnais inflections. 
When I went to the toilet, up some more stairs, in a kind of community centre for the park there were people in Halloween costumes all over and also people who had harvested an autumn specific wild soy bean. It is a drk greens black coloured bean and quite highly sought after. As I was heading back I stopped to. Take a picture of the people cutting the beans off the branches.  A lady asked would I like to try the edamame? Of course I said yes and hand on heart they were truly oisshi. I kept being plied and agreed to just one more, just one more. Only had a few really but damn they were good. 
After the military precision packing up it was back down the mountain to the station. We then caught a train to another station (Nagata) where Mami and Leia picked us up and drove to the Uehommachi Bus Terminal where I caught the Airport Limousine for would you believe ¥1550. Luxury bus and porters load/unload your baggage. V civilized. As last year Yoichi (and this year the rest of the family) waited to wave me off. Such lovely people. 
Got to KIX with plenty of time to spare. In fact too much but better, etc,,,, Checked in, returned my wifi rental and headed to the shops. I knew there was a UniQlo there because the last time the Anami's had driven me to the airport ( about 5 years ago) we had a look in it and they bought me a summer suit- cotton shorts and jacket. Couldn't resist a windbreaker for ¥1490 and a belt for ¥1200. Then on through Security, Customs and Immigration by way of a shop to buy 2 x onigiri, a bottle of barley tea and 4 packs of green tea Kit Kats. Got the South Wing shuttle train to Stop 3 and walked to Gate Lounge 34. The free wifi has genuine speed ( 17.79 down and 6.78 up) so I thought I would try FaceTime  thought Sal most likely to be available and we connected on the second attempt. Sooooo fun to see and talk on your phone. I love it
So this whole thang is being written aboard JQ16 from KIX to Cairns at 41000ft. I will send it when I get to CNS
The trip is nearly over. I have had a great time recounting my days in the Land of the Rising Sun and can't wait to be able to do it all again next year. Probably aim for July to catch Gion Matsuri in Kyoto. One of the 3 big festivals in Kyoto where giant light covered floats and crowds of people have fun in the streets for 2-3 weeks  
Until next time, I'm putting away my two typing fingers and we will have to make do just talking to each other for the most part. 

Lotsalove- 2526km from Cairns,

Tim

JT 14-Day 13

Konbanwa from Osaka,

Well today was my last sightseeing day. 
As seen in the photos I sent this morning I had onigiri and a banana (not together mind ) for brekkie.
Then the ritual train ride to Osaka Station to catch another train to Sannomiya Station in Kobe. 
Each day I give thanks for the two apps that make travel easier- Hyperda and Google Maps.  
I get the trains I need from the first and literally step by step instructions to my destinations from the second.
I had copied three locations in Kobe from japan-guide.com as possible sites to visit and happily noted that all were most easily accessible from Sannomiya Station. 
So off for a 15 minute walk to Sorakuen Gardens. What a revelation. There was a display of chrysanthemums, bonsai and various other floral combinations scattered throughout the gardens. Not only that there was a couple having wedding photos taken. 
Whilst enjoying a cup of tea and mochi I was approached by a couple who offered to take my photo. Obviously I was happy to agree. The man took my camera and his wife shielded him from the sun with her umbrella. He kept moving back and further back and suddenly I realised that I had added zoom to take a "closer" pic of the wedding couple so I apologised and moved the setting back to normal. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to reciprocate as they hustled off at a rapid rate. I felt a bit embarrassed re the zoom incident so didn't want to be too pushy. Sat down again to finish my tea and sweet when I hit the motherlode literally. Two sweet old ladies who I had noticed talking about me and looking as if they were dying to take a pic. The teeshirt I had on today is a mashup of Godzilla (in Japanese- Gojira) and Jaws. They initiated the contact by saying "Gojira" and much nodding agreement ensued. One of them came up and asked if she could have her photo taken with me- combination of Japanese and gestures- again happy to oblige. Then I indicated for the other one to also get a photo with me. Much giggling and thanks all round. Then I took a photo of them with their camera and one with mine. Parted as best friends. A few minutes later I noticed they were taking shots of each other in front of one of the floral displays and a Japanese chap came up and started giving tips on where to stand to minimise squinting into the sun, etc. a truly wonderful experience and a glorious little gem of a garden. It belonged to a Mayor of Kobe who's family gave it to the city for public access. 
Next a 7-8 minute walk back pretty much the way I had come to get to Ikuta Shrine which dates from 201AD. It has been rebuilt numerous times, the last being after the Kobe earthquake in 1995. Turns out Kobe is named for the 44 retainers (kanbe) sent to run the shrine early on. 
On the way to Sorakuen I had noticed a Yoshinoya so after visiting Ikuta I headed there for lunch. 
Replete I now headed north for 10-12 minutes to Kitanocho which is an area where foreigners lived when Kobe port was opened up for trade after the Meiji restoration in the 1870's. Uphill all the way quite a workout and you have to wonder if the gaijin were being punished by having to trek up and up, even allowing for the stupendous views over the city and port. 
There are a number of houses (known as Ijinkan) which are open to the public. I bought a ticket to 5 of them including the former Chinese Embassy and the Kobe Foreigners Club. After all the walking up hills and stairs each house of course is 2 story so I really finished my sightseeing this trip on a literal high. 
Now it was even more literally downhill all the way back to Sannomiya Station. 
When I was within about 200 metres I noticed what appeared to be a bamboo thicket leading to what the sign on the footpath said was Green House Silva, a cafe/coffee shop. I wandered in to look and there was a Shibe asleep in front of a kennel next to the path leading to the cafe. I took some photos of the dog and looked at the building. An absolute knockout   It had 3 floors the 2nd and 3rd were open and people sitting looking out through the bamboo. I started to head back down the path to the station and thought why not have a coffee? So in I went and it's as amazing inside as out. My double expresso was exorbitantly expensive (¥610) but worth it for the taste and the ambience. 
I will definitely have to revisit Kobe at some  other time. A very interesting place and it seems there is a saying; " If you can't go to Paris go to Kobe."l Paces like Green House Silva and an absolute plethora of quirky boutiques, handcraft shops and the like definitely contribute to a cosmopolitan feel. 
Reverse direction now from Sannomiya to Shinimamiya then to Family Mart for provisions. 
Dinner, bath,writing and then I will pack ready to meet up with Yoichi at Suminodo Station in the morning. 
The old story- first week lasts forever and then it's time to leave plays out again. 
It was terrific to call Mum for an eye update. Hopefully the dropless 4 days before your next appointment will augur well for a hopefully drop free future. 

Lotsalove, 


Tim 


PS- I must reiterate the number of comments I got today from people who recognised Gojira on my tee and were genuinely tickled by it. Worked exactly as I had hoped.

JT 14- Day 12

Good evening gals,

Breakfast this morning was something I hadn't eaten before on this trip- onigiri. The concept of a rice "pyramid" wrapped in nori is one of the greatest examples of perfection in fast food ever. At the cost of about a dollar each they are delicious and filling. The packaging really says it all. You pull on the numbers 1-2-3 in sequence and lo and behold there is a perfectly presented taste sensation. The only choice is which filling do you choose? Due to my complete Kanji ignorance it is a total lucky dip but whichever choice I make they never fail to delight. I will attach a photo (or 2). 
Today didn't really do much but ticked off two on my To Do list
1- visit Shigeo and Miwa at Vermillion. Total pleasure to see them and the cafe is soooooooo cute. Industrial chic at it's most welcoming. I asked Miwa where she found the tiny milk jugs and she said " a ¥100 shop". They were perfect. Everything in harmony and good taste. They are somewhat embarrassed,but very happy nonetheless, that Trip Advisor has them ranked 4th or 5th best out of approximately 3600 establishments in Kyoto. Pretty much down to the foreign tourists loving the excellent coffee, homemade muffins and helpful, friendly people who speak English. They are very happy with their life and it shows. 
2- Visited Bruce 2nd- Website address- www.bruce-kyoto.com/
Bruce Lee ( honest it is his name) is a friend of Yoichi's who, as you will see on the website makes people shaped pencil cases from handprinted fabric he designs. Unfortunately he wasn't there but a very nice lady spoke to me. When I noticed one particular design that had my fave aminal, as you are well aware, the frog on it she said actually there are three that make up a set of the two "lower" frogs on a journey to meet the "God" frog. So tempted.....
Those two trips were to two of the most popular areas outside Kyoto proper- Inari for Vermillion and Arashiyama for Bruce- also the famous bamboo forest is in Arashiyama. 
Came back to Shinimamiya and decided to take the trip up Tsutenkaku (Osaka Eiffel Tower) which I had done once before with Yoichi. They have a new Billiken and it was much more commercial and nowhere near as quaint as last time. Still a great view in every direction. Interestingly the photos,  showing points of interest in each of those directions, concentrated on highlighting hotels. Presumably some money changes hands and typified the whole exercise. 
Back to the Hotel, dinner, bath, watch telly and write this- becoming quite the routine. One I'm quite happy with. 
Presuming no news etc re Mum's 'condition' ?
Off to Kobe tomorrow. 

Lotsalove,

Tim xoxo

JT 14- Day 11

Greetings from Osaka,

Today's entry in "I Forgot to Mention This Yesterday" is:

Yesterday I forgot to mention that it got to about 26°. So it was quite warm walking around Kyoto and it was humid as well. 

Headed off to Nagoya after breakfast. I know this is not the first time I have mentioned this but, damn the train system is stupendous. From planning using Hyperda, arriving at the destination to the minute & every stop/step in between is the best travel experience you can have. 
Caught the Nagoya City Loop Bus to Nagoya-jo which is yet another example of the recreated in ferro concrete after being destroyed during WW 2 castles. This one made it all the way to May 1945 before bombing burnt most of the structures to the ground. Like Osaka-jo you climb to the top via the upstairs flight and come back via the downstairs flight. Because they form a double helix there is no possibility of people going up or down getting in each other's way. Pure genius. The better alternative is to climb up and get the lift down. Each floor focuses on a different aspect of the castle and the second floor contained a special exhibition with 100+ exhibits on the theme "The Unification of Japan" about the efforts of Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu to become the ruler of a united country. Then I went to look at the reconstruction of the Honmaru Palace. Seeing the amount of wood that goes into building such a structure is mind boggling and the smell of fresh cut cedar is a sensation not to be missed. After looking down on the work in progress you then go inside the part that has been completed so far and it is extraordinary. Definitely a must see and I will definitely go back to see the next stage/s when completed. It is expected Stage 2 in 2916 and Stage 3 in 2018. Very good reasons to return. My first "Where are You From" moment of the day occurred as I was leaving the second floor viewing area looking down on the builders at work. Turned out to be an older chap who was on some sort of work trip from Tokyo who obviously keeps tabs on the progress and said he has seen the whole process from the reconstruction of the Castle Keep on. Also he was born in Osaka. Nice man. 
Went back to the bus stop intending to go to the next stop- the Tokugawa Art Museum and realised I had just missed a bus. So walked over to a nearby building and found out it is the Nagoya Noh Theatre. Wandered inside and signs stated that the actual theatre was open to visitors FOR FREE. I love the serendipity of situations like that. Didn't even know Nagoya had a Noh Theatre!
Back at the Bus stop the second "WAYF" moment. Malaysian guy and his girlfriend had flown into Nagoya this morning and this was their first stop. They live and work in Singapore and are in Japan for 10 days. 
Now I had asked him where to next and he said the Toyota Museum (Toyota started in Nagoya as a textiles firm) which was the first stop after getting on at the Station and I said I was headed to Art Museum as mentioned before. Suppose I should have wondered but because it is a loop bus I just presumed they would stay on the loop back to the Station and on again to Toyota. Now bearing in mind the Tokugawa Museum was one stop on when the bus came and headed off the announcement was that the next stop was Noritake Garden ( the second stop) in other words we were obviously heading back to the station. My first misdirection this trip. 
So when I got back there I decided to take a short train ride to Atsuta Jingu which is probably the third most important Shinto shrine after Ise and Izumo (which, as you no doubt remember, I have visited both on previous trips- Ise 2012 & Izumo 2013). The shrine houses the Sun Goddess Amaterasu and the Sacred Sword "Kusanagi". The other two Imperial Regalia are the mirror (housed at Ise) and the jewel (Tokyo Imperial Palace). 
I will definitely be returning to Nagoya so will do the Tokugawa and als Toyota another time. 
Trains back to the hotel and my decision to take the brolly paid off a few times today whereas yesterday I carried it around for nought. 
Bought dinner at Lawsons including another one of that delicious dessert cup I bought in Kanazawa. 
Dinner, bath, writing- quite the routine. 
On the news just before they were talking about this being the 50th anniversary of the first Shinkansen service. I remember hearing a week or so ago someone saying the reason was to have it working for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. 
What an invention. Brilliant. 
At the moment there is a history show about the Nobunaga/ Hideyoshi and I presume Tokugawa will turn up. Really do wish I at least understood a bit of Japanese-all I'm getting is the odd person's or place name but interesting all the same. 
Tomorrow off to see Shige-san at Vermillion 

Till tomorrow then....

Lotsalove,

Tim xoxo

JT 14- Day 10

Hi Ladies,

What a sad day for Australian politics. The passing of a true giant among men. You know Gough did a lot but when you see the list you realise that just about everybody since is a puny midget. 

Back to me....
After breakfast, caught trains to Kyoto and met up with Paul out the front of Kyoto Station. We then walked for about 15-20 minutes to the central shopping district. We went for a coffee in a cafe called Ogawa run by a guy who won World Barista of the Year a few years back. 

We walked through some of the shopping arcades and ended up having lunch at an Udon noodle cafe where for about $7 you got noodles in dashi broth with tempura additions like chicken, fish, fried onions and the like. Think I took a pic. Another only in Japan moment occurred when the lady behind the counter said we had only got 1/2 serves of the fried onion tempura and she would bing full ones to our table. When they came they were huge and frankly one of the most delicious things ever. A lady sitting opposite,as she went to leave advised us, in English, that there was a tempura dipping sauce available for which information Paul thanked her in Japanese. Someone needs to open a restaurant/cafe like it in Melbourne. I'm sure it would make a killing. 

We walked around some more and I was able to tick another location off my list, namely Nishiki Market and it lived up to expectations. Paul said that being a week day it was not very crowded. Wouldn't want to be there when it was. 
Walked some more and ended up at another coffee shop which was the most delightful space. Paul said at times he will go there, have a coffee and write his blog. Anyone would be inspired by being there. 

Walked a bit more and then Paul had to go to work. Currently he has 3 different places he works for teaching Conversational English classes. 
Interesting character and very easy to talk to. He had always had the thought of living in Japan and when a good friend, who is living in Kyoto said well why don't you? he thought why not and has now lived here 18 months or so. 
He shares a 120 year old machiya (traditional house style) with an architect who he met through his friend Greg. He said all the neighbours are "of a certain age" and many think that Paul and the architect (who is gay) must be a couple. He hastens to assure them that the only couple they are is "The Odd Couple"
After Paul headed off I walked a bit more and happened upon Honno-ji Temple where Oda Nobunaga committed seppuku when a former ally attacked the temple. He was one of the architects of the attempts to unify Japan, was the first to use guns in a battle and considering how famous he is I was amazed to see he died aged 49. Sure packed a lot in. Also there was an exhibition of armour, swords, writings and other artefacts associated with Nobunaga. There was one exhibit which intrigued me but unfortunately almost all the information was in Japanese only and so I have no way of knowing what it was. It was a framed piece of carpet, rug or matting that I conjectured may have been under him when he died. Would love to know. 
Caught the City Bus back to Kyoto Station and trains back to Shinimamiya. Didn't really need dinner but bought a chicken and rice bento box at Family Mart and which the staff microwave for you if required. 
Ate, had a bath and now I'm writing this. 
Off to Nagoya tomorrow. Especially looking forward to being able to see the craftsmen at work in the recreation of the Honmaru (the palace/residence) attached to the castle keep in any Japanese castle precinct. 

Lotsalove,

Tim xoxo

JT 14-Day 9

Konbanwa from Hotel Taiyo,

Forgot to mention this last epistle. Before I went to Lawsons I checked to see if Watanabeya (the little bread shop near Oyama Shrine) was open. Unfortunately not, but I could hear sounds which I presumed was someone working. I knocked on the door And the owner/baker answered. I explained that his "breads" were the most amazing taste sensation and I just had to thank him for a wonderful experience. His name sounded like Yuski but have no real idea.

Another truly magnificent breakfast. I developed a theory that the owner upped the amount of rice each day because I finished it all. Today the rice container (the one with the white handle sticking out) was positively chocka. I couldn't finish it so I guess he won. It was a s...load of rice. 
As I was checking out and paying my bill (incidentally the first place ever in Japan to take payment at the end of the stay rather than the beginning) I asked what were the little coloured balls in the first day's miso soup. He went and got a piece of paper that had every dish from each day on it (presumably to avoid repetition- how's that for attention to detail) and started reeling off each dish. I said- "no the little balls in the soup" he went and got a lady who I presume is his mother and does the cooking and she brought out a cellophane bag of these little balls with colours on them which are made of some unknown substance ( I have since found out that "fu" is wheat gluten and this particular 'fu mari' translates as balls. Go figure.
She also had another cellphone bag with the same product in the shape of flowers- name- fu sakura-cherry blossom which she presented to me. Would have preferred the balls but that pack was open sooooooo. 
They both came to the door and bowed me away. It was only later that I kicked myself for not getting a pic. 
By the way slightly damp with light patchy drizzle. 
Walked to the nearby main street and caught a JR bus to Kanazawa Station then the train in reverse to Friday. Kanazawa to Osaka to Shinimamiya.
When I got into the carriage at Osaka I sat down and what should be there but an umbrella that someone had forgotten  I hesitated but took it and felt I was rewarded when I got to Shinimamiya, got in the lift with my suitcase, etc and held the door for a couple. I asked where they were headed and they said Koyasan. When I checked the Hyperdia app on my phone I suddenly remembered that I had made the same mistake last Wednesday when I went to JR Shinimamiya and had to ask the station staff where to catch the Koyasan train and was told the Nankai Shinimamiya station is about 300 metres away. Not sure if I mentioned this in my Koyasan post so as soon as I saw Nankai the penny dropped and I was able to point them in the right direction. Not sure where he was from but pretty sure she was an Aussie. My justification for gaining an umbrella. Mind you it is a beaut- clear umbrella, black handle and spring loaded opening. At first I worried but then I saw the same ones in every second shop for about $4. I will try to bring it back if I can. 
Checked back in at Hotel Taiyo and the girl said: I remember you Tim-san. 
After settling in I decided to go for a walk down memory lane and took the train to JR Namba. 
Back in 2010 when I stayed at the apartment Awaza House run by the Korean Takamoto-san he gave me directions where to meet and I ended up at JR Namba when he meant Namba which is a multi railway station for a number of private operators. That was when the businessman went out of his way to take me to the correct meeting point which took about 10 mins. Also when I had a fault with a charger I bought at Labi Namba (Takamoto-san had taken me there to buy it) and I took it back the next day that was when I met the African guy who had been in Japan for 8 years, married to a Japanese, kids, etc. he was the one who told me that even though they wer supposed to close at 10PM if there were still customers in te store they had to stay and sometimes he didn't leave until midnight or so. 
So I walked to Labi Namba and wonder of wonders saw the African chap- nodded hello and took a sneaky pic. On the way I had stopped and bought the Best Snack in the World for the Price- sort of pancake base with egg, cabbage and brown sauce- all for ¥140- will have pics which explains it better. On the way back stopped at Yoshinoya (remember our first lunch on the Ginza Mum?) and had the Unagi Set- grilled eel on rice, miso soup and pickles for ¥790. Oisshi. 
Then went for a short walk down Ebisubashi-suji which Mum and I walked from the other direction (from Dotonbori) and where we saw the material shop Toroya. Think of you every time since I have been there Mum. Somehow makes you closer. Wish I could find some fabric to bring back ut there is just too damn much choice. 
When I got off the train I thought I would have a look in the Uniqlo branch not far from the station. Imagine my surprise when I saw that it has been replace by a Daiso- the first I have actually laid eyes on. Bought some wrapping paper and tape for ¥216. I will use it to wrap the rest of the Anami presentos. 
Back to hotel via Tamade and Family Mart for dinner/ breakfast provisions. In Family Mart I bought a pack of 7 Green Tea ice cream poles made by Meiji- make chocolates and all things sweet. I really wish these were available in Oz because they are a real mouthf..k.  
Cost- ¥540. I love Japan. 
So after dinner I had my bath and now I'm writing this while watching NHK News. A little while ago they reported a fire in an escalator at Namba Station earlier. Kinda spooky cos I think I might have heard the fire engine sirens when I was in the area. 
I have been Facebook Messaging with Paul D'Agostino and will meet up with him in Kyoto tomorrow morning at Kyoto station. It will be interesting getting a glimpse of how an Aussie teaching English in Japan gets on. 
Will tell all tomorrow night when I return. 

Lotsalove,

Tim xoxo

JT 14-Day 8

Hi ladies,

Just saw your email Lil. Thanks so much for looking after Mum. It is, as always, very much appreciated. You're in good hands Ma. 
Back to the business of pleasure. 
Last day in Kanazawa. 
Another spectacular breakfast which I'm sure you saw on Instagram or Facebook. Posts to both. 
I forgot to mention in yesterday's scribblings that after I left Kanazawa Castle Park and had stopped to check the way to the Nagamachi Samurai district, I obviously appeared possibly lost and was approached by a very lovely lady who offered to help with directions. Turned out she and her husband were from Hokkaido and had just moved to Kanazawa for his work. She had been a teacher but didn't have a job yet here. She literally pointed me in the right direction but I also had the benefit of Google Maps which I have to say is an absolute boon and coupled with my portable wifi is a travel aid par excellence.  
Walked to Myoryuji Temple, which is commonly called Ninjadera, not because of any association with ninja but because it contains numerous secrets to trick attackers and fool would be opponents. On the way I met a really nice man walking his dog (a Shiba inu- beautiful dog-a small version of the Akita). He asked where I was headed and offered to walk me there even though I pretty much knew the way. I have had more people talk to me this trip, invariably asking where am I from, am I sightseeing, etc. it is really nice. 
When I got there place was jumping and a guide asked me if I wanted to do the tour and did I have a reservation? She explained that the tour took approx 40 mins in Japanese only,,,was that OK?i agreed and she took my name and country then motioned me to sit looking at the main sanctuary of the temple. People were whizzing about and it became obvious that it was almost like a conveyor belt of tour groups. As yet another party was called I heard "Orostraria- Tim-san" called out and that was my group. The guide handed me a folder with numbered tabs and an English explanation of the various rooms and features therein. 
Absolutely the best tour.
 When I walked outside a man asked if I spoke English and when I concurred he asked was the tour worth it as his concern was the fact it was only in Japanese. I said I felt it was well worth it. Hope he agreed if he decided to do the tour on my recommendation. 
From there I walked along a main road that is pretty much wall to wall temples but a bit of a disappointment all the same. 
Then walked to the Nishi Chaya District which was a step back in time even allowing for power poles and the like. Back in the day the government allowed "pleasure quarters" where you could drink tea, watch shows, be entertained by geisha and the like in two distinct areas, which back then were outside the city limits. One- Nishi- which means West and Higashi- which means East, were located East and West of the city. After a bit of a wander I decided to head for Higashi Chaya.
Kanazawa has a loop bus service a bit like the City Circle Tram in that one goes clockwise and the other counter, which they label Left Loop and Right Loop and it costs ¥200 however far you travel on the loop. You can actually do a round trip for ¥200. I needed to get from LL8 to LL11 and then had a wander around an also interesting glimpse back in time. 
Took a tour of Kaikaro which is the biggest teahouse in Kanazawa built over 180 years ago and still operates as a venue for geisha performances. 
Then back on the Left Loop from LL11 all the way back to LL8- round trip almost. 
Visited the Honda Samurai Museum- bit disappointing but a great sequence of woodblock prints- "The 53 Stations of the Tokkaido" by Hiroshige. Made it worthwhile actually. 
Headed back to Kikunoya Ryokan by way of the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art and the Kanazawa Noh Museum. Also stopped off at Lawsons for dinner provisions including a dessert cuppy thing that I just ate and posted pics of to Instagram. Best $3.50 sweets EVER. Sort of sponge, cream, creme brûlée and coffee jelly layers. Yummo dare I say oisshi. 
Well I'm off for a bath and an early night. 
Back to Hotel Taiyo tomorrow. 
Update same Bat time same Bat channel. 

Lotsalove,

Tim

JT 14- Day 7

Hi gals,

Covered a lot of territory with not really massive amounts to report. 
Went down for breakfast at 8. I will take my phone tomorrow and get some shots. As we know Japanese food is to be enjoyed visually as well as taste. This meal was no exception- two little fish (sardines?) on a plate with a tiny wedge of lime and a single sprig of Nandina (Sacred Bamboo), a perfectly cooked fried egg, multiple different pickles,rice, tea and the most delicate miso soup- very reminiscent of the soup at Shojoshin-in on Mount Koya- slight citrus tang and these little coloured balls that were a feast for the eyes but not a lot of flavour. I will definitely get a pic tomorrow.
Headed off to Kenrokuen and wandered all over for about 3 hours. A truly extraordinary garden and I'm sure there were parts i missed. The oldest fountain in Japan, trees hundreds of years old and lots of people enjoying a perfect day. 
Visited the Seisonkaku Villa built in 1863 for the mother of the Lord Maeda Noriyasu 13th daimyo of the Kaga Clan. Fascinating and a perfect example of multipurpose space. The door/wall panels can be moved to create an infinite number of possible room shapes and sizes. In one room there were10 or 12 little glass panels with pictures of birds painted by a Dutch artist set into the bottom of a sliding screen. 
Then on to Kanazawa Castle Park and I noticed that they offered free tours so I took advantage and met a lovely volunteer guide Mr Noburo Orito. He had visited Australia a few times including Tassie, Great Ocean Road and Geelong for a friends 80th birthday. He knew about Aussie Rules and barracks for, you guessed it, the Cats. He explained a lot about the history of the Castle and its Lords. Especially interesting was the fact that the wife of the first Lord offered herself as a hostage to the Shogun in Tokyo (or Edo as it was then) after her husband had died to ensure her family retained its power in Kanazawa. Also the power struggle between Edo and Kanazawa- the Maedas were second only to the Shoguns (Tokugawas) in power and wealth. Kanazawa was also spared bombing during the war along with Kyoto and Nara. In fact it is known as "Little Kyoto). 
After touring the section of the Castle that has been rebuilt in the last 15 years I headed for the Nagamachi area which has the most insane concentration of samurai/merchant houses from the last 100-200 years. In some ways areal time warp. Went through a typical example belonging to the Nomura Family. So elegant and cultured- every room a delight AND the gardens... words fail. 
Then back to the Ryokan via Lawsons to buy dinner. 
I have just eaten and now I'm going to have a bath and watch a bit of telly. 
More Kanazawa tomorrow. 

Lotsalove,

Tim

JT 14- Day 6

Konbanwa from Kanazawa,

Up this morning, ate the rice and pickles I bought at Tamade last night and checked out of Hotel Taiyo. 
There is a website I have used every trip called Hyperda that when you put in the station you want to leave from, the destination station and the time (for example Shinimamiya to kanazawa at 9am) it will give times, train type, platform arriving and departing with various options as to times. 
This time I have put the Hyperda app on the iPhone and iPad with a free 30 day trial and as before it's invaluable. 
So I caught a train at 9:16 at Shinimamiya and got off in Kanazawa at 12:17 with just the one change at Osaka Station. 
Thank the Gods for wifi and Google Maps. Not sure how I would have found the Ryokan without them (wifi and GM that is). Probably would have had to take a taxi. Not only that but it was about a 30 min walk (2.4km) and all the way I am wondering why did I choose this place?
When I got here I realised that pretty much everywhere I want to go is within about a 10min walk...so swings and roundabouts. 
On the long walk I noticed a shrine with a very unusual entrance gate which looked like it belonged on a church. I looked it up and found that it was called Oyama Shrine and the gate originally was in front of Kanazawa Castle. It was designed by a Dutch architect in 1589. After settling in at the Ryokan Kikunoya I walked to the Shrine and had a look around. The gate is an extraordinary amalgam of European (stained glass) and Japanese (carved wood, etc) elements. 
Turns out the whole shrine, not just the gate, was transplanted from the Castle grounds- including the garden. 
I have seen this before where the garden at Kodai-ji in Kyoto was moved from Fushimi Castle after it was dismantled In 1623. It is a fascinating story that many rooms and buildings from the castle were incorporated into castles and temples all over Japan. The most bizarre thing was the bloodstained floorboards of a corridor where a commander (Torii Mototada) and his troops committed suicide were included in the ceilings of a number of Kyoto temples. 
Across the street from the shrine I noticed a temporary fence and the sound of machinery   Wandered over and could see through the end of it people digging and sifting through rubble. A lady approached and told me they worked for the Ishikawa Prefectures as archeologists assigned to investigating the Castle grounds. Turns out this particular location once had a gate and a bridge that linked to the Shrine and there is talk of them being rebuilt some time in the future. 
Walked back to the Ryokan, stopping off at Lawsons for food and drink for dinner, ate, bathed and now off to the cot. 
Tomorrow will visit Kenrokuen Gardens, the Kanazawa Castle Park (next door to one another) and see what else I can fit in. 

Lotsalove,

Tim

JT 14- Day 5

hello from the Hotel Taiyo,

Back in Osaka after the most amazing time in Koyasan. If it wasn't such a difficult place to get in and out of,especially the fact that my JR. Rail Pass doesn't work to get to and from, I would definite go there every time. It is a holy place- last night  and this morning cemented that for me. 
After the morning prayers at 6:30 where three monks chanted, gently struck bells and rattled cymbals we had breakfast. Bit more typical in that there was rice and miso soup- the two staples but still a few surprises. 
Left Shojoshin-in and headed for Daishi Koyakai by bus to receive Jukai which is performed by a Shingon Buddhist monk and his assistant   The prayer hall is dark, the only lights from a few candles and the scent of incense permeating every molecule   The monk looms large above and radiates a magnificent presence- a giant shadow backlit by the candles behind him. At the end he calls your name you sit before him and he presents you with a certificate that you have participated. Google it for more information. When you register the lady asks for your name and country and even more clever was that the monk who performed the ceremony had sat and talked to me before the show. He is very interested in carpentry and I told him I was going to Nagoya Castle because the owner of the Nikko hostel I stayed at two years ago ( and who was also passionate about woodwork) told me to go to get a close look at the reconstruction and the methods used. I mentioned the Shikoku Pilgrimage and he has done it twice. Google that one too. I spoke of my passion for everything Japanese and he likened my travels to the important sites like Ise, Nikko and Izumo as my own personal pilgrimage. 
His parting homily at the end of the Jukai was that Koyasan is surrounded by forests of cedars that purify the air so make sure you take deep breaths and reap the benefits. 
Then on to the Garan - Koyasan's central precinct of temples, including the tallest building in town the KonpoN Daito pagoda which clocks in at 46 metres. Also there is the Kondo Hall where major religious ceremonies are held. 
Next and last was the Reihokan Museum which houses many Important and Imperial cultural artefacts. Then the bus to Koyasan Station the Cable car to Gokurakubashi Station and the train to Shinimamiya Station. All in all a memorable experience 
So I went to Tamade for provisions- rice, pickles and fish for dinner and five bananas for about a dollar- nice ones too. 
Ate and had a bath and now I'm tapping this out on the iPado while charging the phone the wifi and the camera battery listening to the constant clack of trains through my open window.  
If you look really closely at the blur in the middle- itsa train.
On to Kanazawa in the morning....
Another update tomorrow night. 

Lotsalove, 

Tim xoxo

JT 14- Day 4

Hello ladies,

Koyasan is da bombe. 
Left Hotel Taiyo about 9:30 to walk to the Nankai Line Shinimamiya station which is about 300 metres from the JR Shinimamiya station. You know what it's like when you are in somewhat familiar surroundings and you get thrown a complete curve ball and find a completely new and busy place. That was what happened to me this morning.  
A whole new busy bustling thriving station. 
Got the Limited Express to Gokurakubashi Station then the cable car up the mountain to Mount Koya Station where you catch a bus to the various shrines, temples and museums. 
Went to the head temple (Kongobuji) then on to the Tokugawa Mausolea- one for the first shogun Ieyasu and one for his son, the second Shogun Hidetada built by the third Shogun (grandson/son) Iemitsu. On to the Daimon, not Matt, which is the gate that is literally the entrance to Koyasan. 
Then checked in at the temple Shojoshin-in and went for a walk in the biggest graveyard ever (Okunoin) where Kobo Daishi is interred. 
Back for dinner all vego and quite delish- pics on Instagram. 
Then went for a nighttime ramble through Okunoin and had the Most Truly Amazing Experience of My Life. When I was getting near KD' mausoleum I saw 4 ladies ahead of me. Bear in mind I think I had seen onl y two other people in this whole vast cemetery up until then   When I got nearer I could hear chanting and it turned out that one of the. ladies was chanting while the other three prayed. I stood behind them and when she had finished she turned and we bowed and I thanked her for the experience. They started to walk off and then she turned back and came up behind me put her hands on my shoulders and starting chanting again. The feeling of this little lady pushing against me and the power of the chant was truly mystical. When she finished I felt ten feet tall and walked back to the temple floating like a cloud 
Had a bath am writing this and about to go to bed cos morning prayers are at six thirty AM !!!
And so to bed as Mr Pepys so eloquently put it 

Lotsalove,

Tim xoxo

PS Free wifi at the temple. Gotta love Japan

JT 14~Day 3

Hi,

Decent breakfast at Acacia Court and bus to CNS international terminal   
Huge line to check in but managed to "cut in" when I found Jetstar refugees Glenn and Leanne. Booked for JQ15 to KIX. Boarded on time-ish but then stuck on the ground while they fixed the Autopilot for  nearly an hour. Finally took off at 12:54 and supposedly we will arrive at19:49. 
More later.....
One hour later... Not only Audio but all Movies, TV, etc FREE. Taking a quick look at Capt. America Winter Soldier 
Also the other pair of Jetstar refugees (Vlad and Danielle are 3 rows away. They're staying at the Hotel Dotonburi which incidentally I have photos of- big head statues outside. 
About an hour to go and I've watched Tangled and I'm watching Cars 2 at the moment. 
I'm now at Hotel Taiyo sitting on my futon and watching another panel show where they talk about everything from Sumo to food by way of every other possible topic. 
I have been to the 24 hour Tamade supermarket and bought rice, pickles and 2 litres of barley tea. Had the rice and pickles for supper and the barley tea is for travelling tomorrow. Not the whole 2 litres but I will decant into a 500 ml bottle for drinking on  my way to Koyasan.
It's half eleven here, so time to think about turning in for the night
Tomorrows missive will be from Shojoshin-in including updates on evening prayers and the monks veggie dinner

Lotsalove 

Tim xoxo

JT 2014- Day 2

Hi again,

No improvement. 
Went down to breakfast and a lady from the hotel comes up and informs us Jetstar refugees that the flight had been cancelled again. 
Rang Jetstar and after much palaver apparently I have the last seat on the Cairns to KIX flight tomorrow (12:55)-19:10). The alternative which I am also booked on is a flight to Tokyo (Narita) tomorrow afternoon leaving at approx 13:30 and getting to Narita about 20:00. Then on to KIX Wednesday morning arriving about 10:30. If the direct flight doesn't go ahead and I can get to Tokyo then I'm hoping I can maybe get a Shinkansen late at night to Osaka. 
So stuck in Cairns for another day. 
More news updates as they come to hand. 
Fingers and toes crossed. 

Lotsalove,

Tim

Japan Trip 2014- Day 1

Hi Gals,

Not such an auspicious start to the trip
As you know I was concerned about the typhoon. As if turned out that was not the primary concern today. 
First came the message that the flight was delayed. Instead of leaving at 8am it was rescheduled to 8;55. 
Second, when we get to Cairns the crew announced that the flight on to KIX (Osaka) was cancelled and we would have to spend the day/night in Cairns and get a flight at 12:15 tomorrow. 
So here I am in Room 516 of the Acacia Court Hotel after having an All You Can Eat buffet and a shower watching the Socceroos play Indonesia in a reasonably aircon'd, slightly musty smelling locale. 
Have to say it would have been nice to finish the day in Osaka rather than Cairns. The idea was that because it was an international flight, luggage would go through to KIX and I would just hang out in Transit for an hour and a half rather than two and a half as would have been the case if we had left at the original time. 
The one bright thing, before it decided to have a mechanical meltdown, is that the Boeing 787 Dreamliner is a very comfortable plane. Bit more legroom, individual screen and USB charging port. 
I really like the predictive spelling with iOS8. It's fun seeing what options come up and the possibility of just using the word it offers is somewhat irresistible. I'm not going to get the best thing ever when I have to do it all the time of the day after a few years and I don't know how to make it so much better than this is (last sentence was an example of just using the next words offered). 
So now I'm watching some anime and thinking about having a good nights sleep. 
I sent an email to the Hotel advising them of my delay and within about 15 minutes I got a reply thanking me for the information and hoping to see me tomorrow. My fervent wish also. 
Gotta love technology huh. 
I do have free wifi and the interesting thing about the hotel is that it is part of the Comfort Hotel group which the hotel I stayed in Nagasaki is also part of. They even have the same coffee making machine in the restaurant so I had a couple of double expressos after my AYCE buffet. 
By the way I did go for a wander around the Cairns city centre this afternoon. Talk about international. Languages from all over. Had a gynormous kebab from Ali Babba's FNQ and a Gelato from Devine's Gelato which incidentally had numerous Trip Advisor commendations plastered up on the wall. 
Let's see what happens tomorrow. 
Quite the adventure. 

Lotsalove,

Tim

My Annual Trip to Japan

Every year since 2008, except for 2011 due to the earthquake/tsunami, I have spent two weeks in Japan exploring places, meeting people, taking lots of photos and generally having the time of my life in the country that I would like to think of as my second home.

For the last couple of years I have sent a daily email to my Mum and 2 sisters, recounting my experiences. Whether foolishly, or otherwise, i wondered if anyone else would find these interesting so i thought I'd post this year's and see what transpires.

Here we go then...